Happy weekend, my lovelies! I'm back to the Treasury after a two-week hiatus (imposed by schoolwork - really - and a visiting friend), and psyched to share some cool finds with you. Let's get to it, shall we?
First up, courtesy of the ever-stylish Hollister Hovey, a collection of Holiday magazine covers from the 1950s. They are absolute perfection: graphic little time capsules of Americana, depicting destinations from sea to shining sea.
Next up, we have Kelty, the super-talented designer and photographer behind Steep Street. Her print and web work are gorgeous, but I'm especially taken with her photography. She recently posted photos from a wedding she shot in Big Sur, and they are, in a word, stunning. You can check out her full site here, and follow her blog here.
Finally, some very exciting news from just over the East River. Kings County Distillery, the Brooklyn-based small-batch bourbon maker, has just started selling bottles of their product. I don't know about you, but I can't wait to get my hands on the first hard booze (legally) made in the city since the end of Prohibition. Especially since it's bourbon. Smoky, sweet, lovely bourbon.
Hello, kids! It's that time: time for a little facelift here at Queenie. My incredibly talented friend Miya has created a fabulous new header for me, based on the bistro menus of Paris. Those menus change pretty frequently, and are usually written on chalkboards or in white marker on glass partitions. Our menu is pretty simple, and won't be changing any time soon: Let's eat, let's travel, let's party!
On my last day in San Francisco, Faith and I took a drive out to Flora Grubb Gardens, a florist-cum-design shop deep in the Mission District. Loyal New York Times Weddings & Celebrations readers might recognize the name; Flora hosted her brother's wedding reception at the store, and the union was featured in the Vows column.
It's a pretty nifty place; Faith termed it the Anthropologie of flowers, and that's about right. The store sells plants, pots, stationery, cut flowers, garden furniture, Ritual coffee, brownies and assorted decorative objects.
Among its coolest items, though, are the walls of tightly-packed succulents. You can buy a small version, as small as 11 inches by 14 inches, but why would you do that when you could cover a whole wall of your apartment in such an amazing, gravity-defying mix of texture and color? It's living art, and I love it.
Flora Grubb
1634 Jerrold Avenue
San Francisco, California
415.626.7256
When we were in Napa a few weeks ago, my mother and I - of course - made a pilgrimage to Taylor's (now re-christened Gott's - read about that particular saga over here) in St. Helena. No trip to Napa would be complete without one of their superlative burgers.
This time, instead of fries, we decided to split an order of onion rings. Now, I don't eat onion rings very often, mostly because I find them to be nearly universally disappointing. They're feckless little things. They feign competence, arriving all hot and golden and crispy, but they shed their delicious batter on any kind of contact with my mouth, leaving me with pointless, flavorless batter and limp, sad onion. There's nothing fun about that.
But Gott's onion rings aren't like that. These have a delicious beer batter that - get this - actually sticks to the onion! No matter how many bites you take, the two remain one! And what a delicious one they are. Well-seasoned with salt, perfectly cooked and crispy. These are onion rings as God and Mother Nature intended, my friends.Oh, and - the burger is, of course, still stellar.
Gott's Roadside
933 Main Street
St. Helena, California
707.963.3486
Happy weekend, my doves! I'm spending this weekend out in the country - well, OK, the 'burbs. My friend Ellie invited me out to spend the weekend at her parents' house in our Connecticut hometown, and I'm enjoying the excellent company, gorgeous greenery and...pool! But before I put my sunhat on and run back to the lounger, it's time for this week's Treasury!
First up, a look at Jim Datz's amazing, destined-for-iconic-status Brooklyn and Manhattan posters. Inspired by vintage signage from the 1940s and '50s, Datz has created two posters showing the (approximate) arrangement of neighborhoods in my two favorite boroughs. My friend Miya has already purchased the Brooklyn poster to hang in her new Prospect Heights digs; I think I just might need one of each.
I may have already found my dream kitchen, but that doesn't mean I can't still admire the others from afar. I'm a little bit obsessed with this kitchen's combination of green paint, wood and white subway tile. And the cookware collection ain't bad, either. One last note: is that a papier-mache donkey's head on the island? As in, Bottom's costume? Because, if so? Props. (Via the always-excellent The Goodie Life.)
Last but not least, a very dangerous destination for all things paper-related. Prints, stationery - you name it, Felt & Wire sells the best of it. This silkscreen Mokka print would look great in that green kitchen, no? Synchronicity, folks. Synchronicity.
When I was little, strawberries were one of my favorite foods. And, frankly, they still are. I greet the arrival of strawberries to the market with something akin to glee; something, admittedly, rather childish. I get giggly and squirmy and, let's face it, a bit competitive. I want those berries, and have them I will, Greenmarket crowds be damned.
This weekend's berry haul was particularly tasty - tart and sweet in that way that only berries really are, and absolutely beautiful to boot. I ate a full pint dipped in crème fraiche and topped with dark brown sugar one night, cooked another quart into a batch of strawberry-rhubarb compote, and decided to make some crostatas with what was left.Crostatas are free-form cousins to pies and tarts, and they're ridiculously easy to make. Hate transferring your rolled-out pie crust to your pie plate or tart pan? Don't have a pie plate or tart pan? Crostatas are for you, my friend. A little food processor action, a bit of rolling, a spot of folding, and you have a finished dessert. The best part? They're beautiful and show off the jewel-like fruit in a way normally reserved for lattice-top pies, and they impress people in a rustic, Tuscan sort of way.
Go ahead. Show off.
Strawberry-Rhubarb Crostata
For the pastry:
1 1/4 cups flour
1/4 cup polenta
2 tsp. turbinado sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1 stick butter, very cold or frozen, cut into 1/2-inch bits
3 tbs. ice water
For the filling:
5 stalks rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 pint (1/2 quart) ripe strawberries, hulled and cut in half lengthwise
1/3 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tbs. butter, cut into small bits
1 egg, beaten
Softly whipped cream or crème fraiche, for serving
Place the flour, polenta, sugar salt and butter in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment. Pulse together until the mixture is mealy and most of the butter is about the size of small peas. With the processor running, stream the water in one teaspoon at a time until the mixture begins to come together in one or two big clumps. You may not need all the water, depending on the humidity in your ingredients and the air. (Alternately, you can make the pastry in a medium bowl, using a pastry blender. A food processor is super-fast, but a pastry blender works well, too. Make sure to chill the bowl ahead of time.)
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and mold into a large disc. Wrap in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator. Let the dough rest for at least an hour; it can sit in the fridge for up to 36 hours before you use it.
When you're ready to make the filling and bake the crostata, take the dough out of the fridge and let it sit; this will help take the chill off a bit. In the meantime, pre-heat the oven to 400°F. Combine the strawberries, rhubarb, sugar, vanilla and salt in a medium bowl. Stir to coat the fruit in the sugar, and continue to stir until it begins to dissolve. Set aside while you roll out the pastry.
You can use the pastry to make one large tart or several (three or four) little ones. No matter what size you're after, the method is the same. Lightly flour a piece of parchment paper and place the dough in its center. Flour your pin and use it to whack the disk of pastry once or twice, then start rolling it out from the middle outward, spinning it if you need to, until you have a roughly circular shape about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer the crust (on the parchment paper) to a cookie sheet.
Spoon the filling into the middle of the tart, leaving about two inches of crust as a border. Starting anywhere you'd like, fold the pastry up over the filling. Continue to fold in triangles as you go around the tart (Refer to the photo above; it's easy to do once you take a look at a finished version, I think.) until all the edges are folded over the filling, leaving a nice circle of pretty fruit exposed. Using a pastry brush, paint the crust with the beaten egg; this will give it a nice sheen. Dot the exposed filling with the butter.
Place the tart in the oven and bake for 25-35 minutes, depending on your oven, rotating the tart halfway through baking. Bake until golden-brown and bubbly; the crust may leak some juices, but should hold up pretty well in any case, despite the liquid. Once the tart is done, remove it from the oven and transfer it, on its parchment paper, to a cooling rack. Cool at least slightly before slicing. Serve topped with crème fraiche or whipped cream.
Serves 6.
No visit to Momofuku Ssäm Bar would be complete without a dessert pit stop at the adjoining Momofuku Milk Bar. Milk Bar's staff, headed by pastry chef Christina Tosi, is famous for combining the salty and sweet into unique and often nostalgic desserts.
Cereal milk is bottled for drinking and made into soft-serve ice cream; cinnamon buns become pies; cakes are ringed in confetti. It's not hard to understand why the place is a massive hit, especially with 20- and 30-somethings raised on the giddiness-inducing sugary cereals of the 70s and 80s.After our latest bo ssäm adventure, we decided to head over to Milk Bar for a sweets fix. I went for ice cream, choosing the cinnamon soft serve with cornflake crunch topping. It was delicious, and the texture was wonderful - silky smooth and creamy. That said, I thought the ice cream was a bit too salty (and I'm someone who likes salt with her sweets). If salt has become the dominant flavor, it's no longer doing its job as an enhancer, and that was the case here. That said, Miriam's cereal milk soft serve with the same topping? Awesomeness.
I've still found nothing to beat the cornflake-chocolate chip cookie or the cinnamon bun pie, though. YUM. (Also, out-of-towners take note: some Momofuku Milk Bar goodies are available for shipment!)
Momofuku Milk Bar
207 2nd Avenue (Corner of 13th Street)
212.254.3500
On our first afternoon in Napa, my mom and I paid a visit to an old favorite: Bistro Jeanty. Bistro Jeanty sits on Washington Street in Yountville, one of a few restaurants that make up what is quite possible the best couple of blocks for food in the entire world: The French Laundry, Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery, Bistro Jeanty and Ad Hoc. They're all right there; you could, theoretically, spend the entire day just eating, never walking more than a couple hundred feet between meals. (Someone's probably done it; if not, get on it, people with stomachs of steel!)
Bistro Jeanty opened in 1998, and has been packed to the gills for pretty much every meal ever since then. It's a bistro in the classic French style, serving perfect versions of all the dishes you've ever loved from that genre, including vol-au-vent made with sweetbreads and braised rabbit, cassoulet and daube de boeuf. On our visit, I decided to go for two smaller dishes, starting with one of my favorite things: frisée aux lardons salad.
Bistro Jeanty's version is served as a perfect poached egg perched atop a tangle of frisée and teeny, just-this-side-of-crunchy pieces of bacon. The vinaigrette itself is deliciously smoky; I wouldn't be at all surprised if this were due to a pinch or two of bacon fat in the dressing. In fact, I hope it is, because I plan to copy it.
Next up, one of the day's specials: pieds de cochon. When I ordered this as my main, the waiter cautioned me that it was an appetizer; was I sure I wanted such a small portion for my lunch? I assured him it would be fine, and was soon vindicated by the arrival of a dish accompanied by mashed potatoes. Anything that comes with mashed potatoes simply is not an appetizer!
Regardless of how you classify it, this was a delicious dish. Pieds de cochon does, in fact, mean pig's feet, and consists of the random bits of meat from the trotters, bound together in a kind of charcuterie not too different from headcheese. It's not unusual to see it served lightly breaded and fried, as this version was. It was very rich, and seasoned with tiny bits of black truffle. In face, I don't think I could have handled a bigger portion; it was perfect as it was.
For dessert, Mom and split what has to be one of springtime's great treats: fresh strawberries with creme fraiche and brown sugar. The tangy cream, the sweet berries and the molasses flavored sugar all combine into a little piece of heaven. If you've never had a chance to enjoy this combination, do it now - especially since strawberry season, at least on the East Coast, is at its height.
Bistro Jeanty
6510 Washington Street
Yountville, California
707.944.0103
I've written about the Bo Ssäm dinner at Momofuku Ssäm many, many times, so I'm not going to bore you all with yet another recap. If you're interested in details, you can check out my past reports here (2009) and here (2007).
What was notable about my most recent trip, though, was that was finally able to get decent photos of the goings-on. Finally! So enjoy the food porn, and I hope you have porkified dreams.
It's a long weekend here in the States (Memorial Day is Monday.), and I am psyched to enjoy three full days of cooking with strawberries, rhubarb and snap peas. (I also have to clean the apartment, but let's not talk about that, mmmkay?) Before the cooking fest can begin, I simply must share some cool things from my week's wanderings.
First of all, this. What's this, you ask? This is my perfect kitchen. Rustic yet modern. Lots of workspace, but also a big old farmhouse table where people can gather to talk, read, whatever. This. This is what I want. This, this, this. (It is, as usual, courtesy of one of Design*Sponge's amazing sneak peeks.)
The wedding I went to last weekend had the most adorable arrangements on the tables, little groupings of peonies in milk-glass and hobnail vases. When I got home, I promptly starting combing Etsy for sources so I could imitate the cuteness, and found the amazing Jadite Kate, a store specializing in vintage glassware. You can now rest assured that my perfectly modern/rustic kitchen will be fully decked out in a collection of everything Kate has on offer.
One thing I haven't been willing to consider for my rental is wallpaper. But man, I do love it. I'm imagining various entryways papered in Abigail Borg's incredible designs, and digging it. Her designs are luscious and luxurious, and have price tags to match. But, since this is just a fantasy - for now, at least - I'm cool with that.
Since this is a long weekend, I thought a little extra Treasury action would be good for us all. And since we're marking the unofficial start of summer, I thought Mélangerie's State-by-Food tote bag - perfect for carrying your farmer's market purchases to and fro - was the perfect pick. I absolutely love this bag, with its whimsical drawings of foods native to or representative of each of the 50 states. My home state of Connecticut rocks its hamburger, while my adopted home of New York is identified by the bagel.
On the Thursday night I spent in San Francisco, Mom, Faith and I paid a visit - a pilgrimage, really - to the legendary Zuni Café on Market Street. Zuni opened in 1979, and Judy Rodgers became the chef there in in 1987. She's the one who installed the brick oven that sits in the heart of the space, and she's the one who created what turned out to be the best roast chicken I have ever eaten.
Seriously.
This chicken was insane. Moist, rich, full of flavor, and served with a warm bread salad that put every single helping of stuffing I've ever enjoyed into an entirely subpar category.
I can't wait to recreate this one myself; I'll be following Smitten Kitchen's slightly simplified version of Rodgers' recipe. Join me, won't you?
Zuni Café
1658 Market Street (Between Franklin and Gough)
415.552.2522
Photo courtesy of Ann&Ming on Flickr.
Hey, kids! It's that time! Time to announce the winner of the Recipe for Love giveaway. (As you remember, our prize is a gift of an apron, a set of spatulas and a signed, hardcover copy of the latest book in the series, On the Steamy Side.
Well, good news, RADgirl...you did win! Email me at megblocker (at) gmail (dot) com with your address in order to claim your prize!
On the Sunday night I spent in San Francisco, Faith, her friend Chrysanthe and I headed over to the Mission to pay a visit to one of the hottest restaurants in town, Flour and Water. Seriously. This place was hopping. We called early in the week to try for a reservation, but no luck. We lined up at 5:15 with about twenty other people, and the place was full from opening till, I assume, closing time at midnight. (Which is pretty late for San Francisco.)
Once we'd eaten our dinner, though, it was easy to see why everyone else wanted to eat there, too. It was one of the best meals I've had in a while, and I cannot wait to make a return trip. We started off with a pizza to share. Flour and Water is Italian, mostly, and heavily focused on pizza and pasta (hence the name). Faith had been the week before and couldn't stop thinking about the ramp and black trumpet pizza, so, naturally, we couldn't help but order it.
It was awesome. The crust was chewy, slightly crispy perfection. The pizza was topped with a pecorino, black trumpet mushrooms, chopped ramps (green and white parts) and a bright green ramp pesto. It was suitably stinky, the cheese was gooey, and the whole thing made me very, very happy.
We then moved on to appetizers. Faith ordered a side dish instead of a salad: roasted carrots with lemon, capers and very finely chopped chives. These were carrots taken to another level. They were roasted in butter, and were sweet without being cloying, tender but not mushy. The capers added a salty, briny note, and the chives freshened things up. All in all, a major hit.
My starter was a "salad" - Flour and Water likes to use the term loosely - of crispy lamb sweetbreads, arugula and artichokes. Artichokes aren't normally my favorite thing, but these were perfect with the sweetbreads. Lamb sweetbreads tend to be a bit creamier than their veal counterparts, and these were no exception. The bitterness of the arugula paired with the astringent flavor of the artichokes helped cut through the fat. Fantastic.
Next up, our pastas. The pastas were all made in-house, and were incredibly fresh. Mine was a tagliolini (a lighter fettucine, essentially) with chopped parsley rolled into the pasta itself. Tossed with the noodles (and with a copious amount of butter) were razor thin slices of asparagus and hand-pulled pieces of braised hen. I loved this. The pasta was impossibly light and delicate, but the sauce, despite its springy flavors, was rich and hearty. Rich flavors, light texture, pure deliciousness.
Faith ordered pici in a brothy pork ragu, which was also delicious. It was one of the lightest ragus I've tasted, free of cream or milk, and swimming in its own juices. Little bits of carrot and onion floated in the sauce, too, and meat itself was tender and deeply porky.
Finally, dessert. Oh, dessert. First up was a rhubarb tart, served with crème fraiche ice cream and fresh strawberries. It was fantastic, right down to the swirl of grassy olive oil on the plate. The pastry was rich with butter, and shattered a bit when cut with a fork. It paired beautifully with the tart rhubarb and sweet berries; rhubarb season has ended in California now, I think - it was great to be there while it was still on every menu.
Last, we had a chocolate budino, which is an Italian-style pudding. It was topped with coffee-flavored cream and a crucial, generous sprinkling of crunchy sea salt. I don't always go for the chocolate dessert, but I couldn't get enough of this one. The salt and coffee made it interesting - and it was pretty good with some of the crème fraiche ice cream from the tart plate. Yum.
Guys, I can't speak highly enough of this restaurant. It was a delicious meal. The service was great - attentive but not fawning, and very, very friendly. The room is warm and welcoming, with just the right amount of buzz. If you can get in, go. If you can't, go early and wait, like we did. It's worth it.
Flour and Water
2401 Harrison Street (at 20th Street)
San Francisco, California
415.826.7000
When I planned my trip to California, I had to make sure to leave time to spend a full day with my amazing friend Faith. She's one of the coolest people I know, and so I'd never confessed to her my burning desire to visit Alcatraz Island, a.k.a The Rock, a.k.a. the most touristy destination in all of San Francisco. Imagine my surprise, then, when Faith herself suggested we take the ferry out to Alcatraz on Monday afternoon! Turns out she'd never been, either, and we decided it was just the thing to do.
We booked on Sunday night (though, if you're going during the summer or on a weekend, I recommend booking at least a couple of weeks in advance) and boarded the 1:10 ferry on Monday afternoon. It was a gray, drizzly day - very atmospheric, and very bad for the hair.Very few of the buildings on the island have been fully restored, which gives the place a crumbling, slowly-returning-to-nature feel. Lots of rust, crumbling masonry and creeping, misty greenery gives it a slightly abandoned air. The island has been continuously occupied since the mid-nineteenth century, first as a fort, then as a military prison, and finally as the infamous federal penitentiary, home to Robert Stroud and Al Capone, among others.
Everyone I talked to about Alcatraz had the same recommendation: take the audio tour. They were absolutely right. While audio tours can sometimes be a cheesy undertaking, Alcatraz's is narrated by a group of former guards and inmates, and is seriously interesting. In fact, it's almost too academic - I was kind of hoping for ghost stories and general creepiness, but got mostly hard-boiled narrations. It was like Raymond Chandler wrote the script himself.One of my favorite bits of trivia came at the end of the audio tour, in the dining hall. The knives were hung on a board painted with their silhouettes, which reminded me of Julia Child's iconic pegboard. Of course, in this case, the utility of the silhouette was a bit different; ease of access wasn't the issue. Being able to quickly spot a missing knife - potentially stolen by an inmate - was.
The most unexpected thing about Alcatraz, for me, was the beauty of the island itself. I absolutely loved the different textures and states of decay to be found all over the place, and couldn't get enough of the succulent gardens (originally planted by the families of the guards who lived on-island in the 1950s and 1960s). (To see all of my photos from the day, click on over to my Flickr account.)
The weather was a bit spotty, but we were lucky enough to have a few fog-free moments to view the beautiful San Francisco skyline through the mist. If there's a city that does more to marry architecture with its unique geography, I've yet to visit it.
Sigh.
Happy weekend, kiddos! I'm back from California and ready to enjoy a New York summer. I know, I know - I'm jumping the gun a bit there, but it's so gorgeous right now that I can't help but think of barbecues and lazy afternoons in the park. Sigh. In the meantime, how about some seriously cool treasury picks?
First up, this Catskills home from the New York Times. I'm not in love with all of it, but I'll be damned if this great room isn't a thing of beauty. The owner has dealt with knotty pine in the only acceptable manner: paint that stuff white. And the results are spectacular.
Next, a seriously amazing shop full of more painted wood - this time, though, we're talking gilt paint, and I'm in love (with a store named cabin 7). I'm trying really, really hard to be a good girl and not buy any more, well, stuff - but these MERCI alphabet blocks are calling my name. You can hear it too, right?
Finally, via the sharply witty and full-of-perfect-taste blog Design Blahg, we have custom Sigg bottles. You choose a design and add your custom text, they put it on a bottle, and you give one of the coolest gifts ever. I'm currently pondering what my bottle will say. Any ideas?
OK, not really. In fact, no boxes of pudding were harmed in the making of this particular dessert. But every time I think of pudding, I'm reminded of that so-funny-it-hurts sketch from The State, where Barry and Levon got, um, familiar with a serious amount of pudding. Watch it, if you like, then read on.
So, back to the pudding. The chocolate pudding you see above is a leftover cook's treat type of deal. I made this (delicious) chocolate cream pie to bring to dinner at my brother and sister-in-law's place a couple of Sundays ago, and there was just enough pudding left over to make a nice dessert for me on Monday night.
The pudding is intensely chocolatey. It bears little to no resemblance to a Jell-O pudding cup, and that's a damn good thing. You melt and blend both bittersweet and unsweetened chocolate into a homemade pudding, then add a touch of vanilla to round things out, and some butter to make them nice and smooth. It's so chocolatey, in fact, that you really do need the sweetened whipped cream to cut through the richness.
Not like I've ever needed an excuse to eat plenty of sweetened whipped cream.
Dark Chocolate Pudding
Adapted from Gourmet
5 oz. fine-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped
4 oz. unsweetened chocolate, chopped
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup cornstarch
3/4 tsp. salt
6 large egg yolks
4 1/2 cups milk
3 tbs. unsalted butter, cut into bits and softened
1 1/2 tsp. vanilla
Sweetened whipped cream, for serving
Add the chocolates to the top of a double boiler (or just a metal bowl set over simmering water). Melt chocolates together, stirring, until smooth. Remove the bowl from heat and set aside on a trivet or pile of dishtowels to cool.
Next, in a heavy saucepan (about 3 quarts) whisk together sugar, cornstarch, salt, and egg yolks until combined well and add milk in a stream, whisking. Cook mixture slowly over moderate heat, whisking constantly.
The custard will thicken gradually, and eventually will begin to boil (You'll see bubbles pop on the surface.). Continue to whisk, keeping the mixture smooth as it thickens to a near pudding-like texture. This can take several minutes; be patient. Don't turn the heat up too high, as the custard can scald.
Once your custard is pudding-like, remove it from the heat and force it through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. Whisk in the cooled chocolate, butter, and vanilla until smooth. Cover surface of the pudding with plastic wrap and cool completely in the refrigerator.
When ready to serve, spoon the pudding into small bowls and top - generously - with whipped cream.
Serves 6-8.
Today we're spending time with the inimitable Lorna Yee, cookbook author and food writer. I first met Lorna through eGullet, where I spent quite a bit of time drooling over her incredible pastry creations. Since those early days, she's co-written a cookbook (The Newlywed Kitchen) and works as a food writer for Seattle Magazine. (She also has a fantastic blog, entitled The Cookbook Chronicles.) Lorna's passion for food is unmatched, except perhaps by that of her husband, Henry. But even Henry can't match her prize-winning pie.
Without further ado, here's Lorna!
How and from whom did you learn to cook?
I learned to cook Chinese food and bake from watching my mom--an incredible woman who was making her own butter puff pastry back in the 80s, without the aid of step-by-step food blogs, or the Food Network. From a young age, I watched my mom prepare elaborate Cantonese meals at home. She would save up her vacation time and take three days off work before family birthdays, just so she could shop and prepare more than ten, banquet-style dishes for our extended family.
Though my mom cooked fantastic meals for us every night, she gradually cut back on the baking. (Hard to keep up with three kids and a full-time job!) I've always loved sweets, and missed having her scrumptious coffee cakes and muffins around the kitchen. When I was about 10 years old, I took her dog-eared copy of The Five Roses Cookbook and asked if I could start baking from it. My mom kept a watchful eye over me the first few times. But even then, I had already picked up on many of the techniques she unknowingly demonstrated on evenings when I'd stand on a stool and watch her fold egg whites with a delicate flick of the wrist. I remember making a personal goal of trying a new recipe out of that cookbook every week, and I did. That's how I made my first cheese soufflé, coffee chiffon cake, and peanut butter cookies.
Do you consider yourself a baker, a cook, or a hybrid? Why?
I consider myself both a home cook and a baker. I've always had a particular fondness for baking, and the cooking bug bit a little later on--I would say perhaps around 13 or 14, after taking Home Ec. classes at school. Around this time, we also started getting Food Network up in Canada, which meant more exposure to cuisines outside of the Cantonese food we ate at home. I was motivated to learn how to cook so I could taste the food of other countries, though I was often overly ambitious. There was a particular episode of Emeril Live that featured Mario Batali making these incredible goat cheese and radicchio ravioli that I craved for days after seeing that show. I had never made pasta before, and growing up in a Chinese household, we didn't have a pasta maker. I figured I could make my own pasta and roll the dough out with a rolling pin. Four hours later, I was exhausted, covered in flour, but I had done it--a perfectly respectable bowl of ravioli, filled with tangy, creamy goat cheese, the richness counteracted by the bitter bite of radicchio.
If you could prepare any meal in the world, what would the menu be, and who would you invite to join you?
"If I could prepare any meal in the world" is an interesting question, because I'd have to consider whether I would want to cook something I'd have the most fun preparing, or what I consider my best dish--considering there are guests in attendance. I think I would create a menu featuring one signature dish from each region of China. I have never experienced a meal like that. I guess if you think about it, Cantonese dim sum could work as what we think of as "pre-dinner bites"--all those tiny parcels of steamed and fried items! Taro puffs filled with savory minced duck, or chive and shrimp dumplings would be ideal finger food. The bolder, more fiery dishes of Szechuan, like red oil poached fish with preserved mustard greens, and a hearty dish of claypot braised lamb from Lanzhou would work nicely as a main. Hand-pulled noodles with a garlicky pork sauce from northern China would be ideal as your starch component, and I'd end the meal with wafer-thin, crispy fried Shanghainese red bean pancakes.
Is there something you love to eat that you never make at home?
I adore sashimi and many other Japanese dishes, but I never prepare it at home because I don't think the quality of the fish I can get from even a reputable seafood shop is as good as that served in the best Japanese restaurants in town. There is too much I don't know about the art of cutting the fish, or preparing the sushi rice correctly. That's a meal best left to a master Japanese sushi chef with years of experience.
Pick your poison.
I love barman Andrew Bohrer's smoked Old-Fashioned at Mistral Kitchen, and he makes a great whiskey sour, too. Although the first cocktail that really blew me away was The Last Word, revived right here in Seattle by Murray Stenson of Zig Zag. I also love single malt scotches, and big reds.
Describe the best meal you've ever eaten. Where were you? Who prepared it? And what made it so special?
As a food writer at Seattle Magazine, I'm incredibly fortunate to have the opportunity to eat extremely well in this city. The greatest dining experience I've ever had, though, was at Alinea in Chicago just this past summer. I was with my husband, and we were celebrating our first wedding anniversary. We sprung for the tour menu and consumed twenty-five courses over the span of a good four hours, at least! Part of what made the meal so memorable was that up until that point, I'd partaken in a few molecular gastronomy meals at well-regarded restaurants, and had been incredibly disappointed. Alinea re-opened my eyes: The meal was entertainment, it was art, but most importantly, the vast majority of what we ate just tasted good.
What's for dinner tonight chez toi?
I just returned home (in Seattle) from a ten-day visit up in Vancouver, BC to see my family. After so many days of eating extravagantly, I am happy to get back in the kitchen and cook something a little lighter for dinner tonight. I'm just grilling some leeks with romesco sauce, and throwing together an easy pasta salad with cherry tomatoes, feta, and arugula. Both recipes are in the cookbook I co-authored, The Newlywed Kitchen. For dessert--I'm going to be honest and tell you I'm just taking a couple balls of homemade oatmeal cookie dough out of the freezer, and baking them off. I frequently make a batch of cookie dough, roll the dough into golfball-sized spheres, space them out on a lined sheet tray, and freeze them. Once frozen, you can put the dough balls into a Ziploc bag and they'll keep for several weeks in the freezer. Whenever you want cookies, just space out the dough on a tray, and bake in a preheated oven. I believe that one should never be more than 350 degrees and 12-13 minutes away from fresh, hot cookies!
Erin Ferretti Slattery (that's her on the right up there) grew up in California and Colorado, and has lived in France, Scotland, Israel, and the Czech Republic. She has worked in PR, book publicity, and international publishing, and has written a cookbook, The Ghost in the Pantry: Culinary Travels through Four Generations. She and her husband, Jakub, live in the food paradise of Astoria, Queens, where she is freelancing as a translator and perpetually starting a novel.
Erin and I first met online over at eGullet many, many moons ago - she helped me plan the Prague leg of the journey Louisa and I took in 2006 - and we finally met in real life last year at a fabulous Jauntsetter party in Williamsburg (Brooklyn, not historical).
How and from whom did you learn to cook?
My mother is the biggest influence, and I learned most of what I cook by instinct these days as a result of watching and helping her from childhood onward--like nearly everyone, I imagine. In the constellation of other inspiring people, there are also friends who can throw together a four-course dinner on an hour's notice, a French host mother with a sturdy yogurt-cake recipe, a British host mother who taught me not to fear lard for the Sunday roast, friends who parted with their grandmothers' cake and goulash recipes, and friends whose individual talents and flair for entertaining are things I try to mimic.
Ultimately, I would say I learned from all the women in my life I've been fortunate to call friends, including my mother, who compiled and printed a book of tried-and-true recipes from friends and family as a wedding gift for me. And I'm also grateful to my dad for initiating me into Zen and the Art of the Weber grill. (My dad has been known to happily do steaks on the Weber in three feet of snow, which is Buddhism of a sort I'll never achieve.)
Hello all! My name is Ana and normally you can find me over at Rearranged Design. I'll be guest posting for Meg today while she's visiting my adopted home state of California.
I am going to share my recipe for homemade Banana-Chocolate-Coconut Ice cream. It's a favorite around my house and easy to make.
I use a KitchenAid Ice Cream Maker attachment. If you have your own ice cream maker I don't see why the recipe wouldn't work with that. If you have a KitchenAid mixer and don't have the attachment, get it! I love mine and once you see how few ingredients are actually in ice cream you'll wonder why you don't already own one.
So, here goes. You will need:
2 1/2 cups Half and Half
8 Egg Yolks
1 cup sugar
2 1/2 cups Whipping Cream
1/8 tsp Salt
4 tsp of Vanilla (I always add a glug more just to give it a real strong flavor)
1 Banana
1 cup Shredded Toasted Coconut
1 Large Chocolate Bar (This is up to you, if you like you can use chocolate chips or a King Size Bar. It's up to how much chocolate you like)
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat half-and-half until very hot but not boiling, stirring often. Remove from heat; set aside.
Place egg yolks and sugar in mixer bowl. Attach wire whip to mixer. Turn to speed 2, and mix about 30 seconds, or until well blended and slightly thickened.
Continuing on speed 2, very gradually add half-and-half; mix until blended.
While the ice cream is churning toast the coconut on a backing sheet until it’s golden in color. Chop the chocolate into chunks (I used 2.5 regular sized Hershey bars) and cut up the banana.
I hope you love it as much as I do! Thanks to Meg for letting me share!
Loyal Queenie readers know her simply as "Louisa." She's a respected contemporary romance novelist, an accomplished cook, and, most importantly, she's my best friend! Louisa Edwards lives in Ohio with her husband (and two ridiculously adorable dogs, with whom I am certifiably obsessed), where she writes her fabulous novels and cooks in her enviably well-equipped kitchen.
The first book in Louisa's Recipe for Love trilogy, entitled Can't Stand the Heat, debuted last fall to excellent reviews, and the second book (On the Steamy Side - my personal favorite so far) came out in March!
When she's not guest posting here or scribbling furiously away on her next novel, Louisa can be found over at her blog, her website, and her always-witty Twitter feed. (She sometimes posts pictures of Hunter and Oscar, said dogs, on Twitter, which is reason enough to follow her.)
Today, along with her interview, Louisa has a giveaway for you! Read her interview for the details, and follow her instructions to be entered to win a whole bunch of loot. (A signed, hardcover copy of On the Steamy Side, a Recipe for Love apron, and a set of spatulas!)
Both of my parents are fantastic, adventurous cooks so we grew up trying lots of different cuisines and ingredients in my house. I moved to NYC after college and got out of the habit of cooking for myself, what with all the fabulous restaurants around, and my kitchen being about the size of a bathtub, but once we moved to a small town in Ohio? If I want something fabulous to eat here, I have to make it myself. So I settled down to figure out how to do that, and realized I loved it!
Oh, you all know me too well. You're right, I'm not fishing - I'm traveling! I'll be back soon, but, in the meantime, some of my most generous friends have stepped up and agreed to guest blog for me this week. We'll have a few interviews, a giveaway, a delicious recipe for homemade ice cream...
It's going to be good times, people!
Don't forget to be super-nice to our guests, and be sure to drop me a line or a tweet if you're interested in guest posting the next time I'm off the grid.
Image courtesy of the New York Times' Joys of the Window Seat series.
Years ago, I read a novel in which the heroine visits one of those big, white elephant resorts in the Catskills (kinda like the one in Dirty Dancing) and is given the choice of a blintz, sweet omelet or eggs for breakfast. I didn't think much of it at the time, but the idea of a sweet omelet has stayed with me ever since.
The other night, faced with a sweet tooth and a practically empty fridge (I don't particularly like to go food shopping when I'm about to go on a trip.), the notion of a sweet omelet surfaced in my mind. I immediately set to Googling and discovered that the idea is essentially to make a cross between an omelet and a crêpe. There's flour and sugar involved, but no milk or water. The result is something richer and puffier than a crêpe, but lighter and sweeter than an omelet.
And man, is it tasty. And the added bit of flour makes it a lot easier to handle than a traditional omelet; while the latter can be tricky to fold and flip, a sweet omelet is bound by the gluten in the flour and holds up nicely to even the most awkward manipulations with a spatula. You really do need to sift the flour, as you would for a crepe; if you don't, you'll end up with little lumpy pearls of flour throughout the omelet. (Trust me; I tried it both ways.) And while I preferred the flavor of turbinado sugar, I found that plain old granulated made for a more evenly-flavored result. (The turbinado kind of sank to the bottom of the eggs.)
The best part might be that it's totally legit to eat a sweet omelet for breakfast. (I halve the recipe to make a dessert version.) I mean, if pancakes or waffles or French toast qualify as breakfast, surely this does as well. And if you add a little jam as a filling, you've even got fruit involved in the equation. Um, sort of.
Sweet Omelet
2 large eggs
2 tbs. granulated sugar
2 tbs. all-purpose flour, sifted after measuring
Tiny pinch of salt
1 tbs. unsalted butter
In a small bowl, beat the eggs together with a fork, as you would for any omelet. Beat in the sugar, flour and salt.
In a small skillet (I use my eight-incher.) set over moderate heat, melt the butter and heat until slightly foamy, swirling to coat the sides of the skillet as well as the bottom.
Add the egg mixture to the pan and cook until the mixture becomes slightly puffy and set all along the sides. (If you want to add jam or another filling, now's the time.)
Using a silicon spatula, fold the omelet over on itself, then flip it over. Cook for another minute or two, until the butter in the pan just starts to turn brown and the omelet is puffy and relatively set up all the way through.
Serves one.
Happy weekend, everyone! It's a rainy morning here in New York; I had to skip the Greenmarket this morning in favor of some more boring errands - but since I'm leaving for California on Tuesday morning, I wouldn't have been able to buy much in any case. I have it on good authority, however, that strawberries have been sighted!
Now, for those of you who haven't just sprung out of your seats to run down to Union Square, here's this week's Treasury!
First up this week is an apartment I've long admired: the West Village home of interior designer (and former Domino contributor) Rita Konig. Her apartment has a gloriously English feel to it, which makes sense, since Konig is, in fact, an ex-pat from London. I especially love the snug bedroom with its custom headboard and bright sunlight.
Next, we have Next! Next is the name of super-chef Grant Achatz's latest venture, a restaurant in Chicago where guests will pay for their meals ahead of time - kind of like we pay for travel, as the promotional video on the new site suggests. In addition to the restaurant, Achatz's team will also be opening a cocktail bar called Aviary. That sound you just heard? That was food and cocktail lovers the world over clapping their hands in glee.
Last, but not least, we have From Me To You, a fabulous blog by Jamie, a photographer who lives here in New York. She's also an avid cook, and her food photography is splendid. That said, I might be most in lust with the photos she just posted the other day. Yes, I'll take my bourbon with a side of gorgeous man, thankyouverymuch.
Kids, I'm headed to San Francisco and Napa next week (for a wedding and work), and will be pretty darn busy while I'm there. (Obviously, part of the reason I'll be busy is that I'll be snapping away and taking loads of notes about what I do, eat and see while I'm gone!)
And so, I'd love to feature interviews with a few Queenie readers while I'm off in the wilds of California. You all lead such interesting lives, and have such passion for food - I want to hear all about it!
If you're interested, leave a comment below or drop me an email (megblocker at gmail dot com), and I'll send you the interview questions.
Cheers!
Spring marches on, and the first peonies of the season made their appearance at the Greenmarket this weekend. I am indescribably happy.
Which flowers make you happiest?
On the very last night of my staycation, I had a ridiculously delicious meal at Frankie's Spuntino with Miles and Hall. After dinner, we stopped into DessertTruck's new stationary location, DessertTruck Works. It's pretty much smack across Clinton Street from Frankie's, which made it eminently convenient for a sweets fix.
I decided that the time was ripe for a brioche doughnut filled with Nutella. And boy oh boy, was I right. The doughnuts were yeasty and buttery (though I noticed no distinct similarities to brioche), and the filling was rich as could be. The sugar coating the doughnuts made them appropriately messy to eat (you have to work to enjoy something this tasty), and the boys and I put these away in second flat.
Can't wait to go back, though I don't know how I'll ever resist the call of the doughnuts. Hmmm...
DessertTruck Works
6 Clinton Street
Between Houston and Stanton
I've been all about the asparagus recently - eating it with eggs, in salads, hot topped with Parmesan and cold alongside leftover chicken - you name it. I've even been mixing it into pasta. I like it most with penne - I can slice the asparagus on the bias, making the pieces roughly the same size and shape of the pasta, which is just a ton of fun.
And, as much as I love asparagus steamed or blanched, I particularly like it when it's been sauteed or grilled. Something about the direct, dry heat gives it a richness that contrasts with its natural grassy flavors. One of the best things about cooking with seasonal ingredients is that things just naturally go well together; I threw ramps and chives into the pan without thinking much about it, and things turned out pretty darn well.
A squeeze of lemon keeps things bright, and a smattering of Parmesan makes them just a bit stinky and complex. All in all, it's good stuff.
Penne with Asparagus and Ramps
1/4 lb. penne rigate, cooked to al dente and drained (research 1/4 cup of cooking water)
2 tsp. olive oil
3 ramps, cleaned and cut into 1-inch pieces
4 stalks asparagus, trimmed and cut on the bias into 2-inch pieces
Juice of half a lemon
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
2 tbs. finely chopped chives
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet set over medium high heat. Add the ramps and saute for a few minutes, until the leafy parts are well-wilted and the white parts have some dark color. Add the asparagus to the pan and saute for several minutes more, until the asparagus begins to turn bright green and just a bit tender.
Add the lemon juice to the pan, along with the mustard. Stir to combine with the vegetables and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook for a few moments, until the lemon juice is mostly evaporated. Add half the chives and mix to combine evenly. Add the pasta and combine evenly with the vegetables. If the sauce is a bit dry, add a touch or two of the pasta water.
Remove the pan from the heat and add the Parmesan cheese. Stir to combine, then remove to a plate. Top with the remaining chives, season to taste, and eat!
Serves one.
On Saturday morning, I arrived home from the Greenmarket absolutely famished. I peeked in the fridge and found about a quarter pound of asparagus, a single, already boiled La Ratte potato, and a dozen eggs.
The solution? An improvised version of home fries, made with a bit of olive oil and some leeks, with a fair bit of pepper thrown in for good measure. Asparagus blanched and topped with a light dressing of white wine vinegar, olive oil and a smidge of grated parmesan. Eggs scrambled with the rest of those leeks and a touch of creme fraiche, topped with chives.
The result? Pure deliciousness. I might have to have it again for dinner tonight.
Happy steamy Saturday, my dears! As I write this, it's 10:45 on Saturday morning and already seventy degrees, with a forecast for the low nineties by this afternoon. Is it May, or is it July? Either way, it's the weekend, which means it's time for the Treasury.
There's something delectably retro about this New York Times collection of photographs taken from the window seats of airplanes around the world. When was the last time you paused to appreciate the magic of travel, as opposed to its drudgery and myriad little humiliations? This set of photos sent in by Times readers reminded me of the wonder of flight, and the excitement of viewing the world from 30,000 feet. I hope it'll do the same for you.
Up next is something I've had my eye on for a while: Fuji's Instax mini instant camera. I just love it. It's like a Polaroid, but cuter and more fun. Ooooh, how I want one. So far I've resisted its siren call, but it will definitely make an appearance on my birthday and Christmas lists.
I am not a major advocate for food television (reality competition shows mainly just make me anxious, and the Food Network has become a parody of itself), but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little bit excited about the coming debut of the Cooking Channel. Mo Rocca exploring food culture? Old episodes of The French Chef and other Julia Child programs? Sign me up, kids.
On the Wednesday of my staycation, I met my friend Anica for dinner at a tiny little place called Dirt Candy. The candies in question are, of course, vegetables, those sometimes sweet, sometimes fresh, sometimes bitter, always tasty products of the soil. I love vegetables, as you well know, but I've been disappointed by the vast majority of vegetarian restaurants in which I've dined. They're usually all about austerity and making a chore of eating - which is a pretty horrifying thing to pay for, when you think about it.
But Dirt Candy (under the guidance of chef Amanda Cohen) is very, very different. It's vegetarian, yes - and they'll go vegan if you like - but it's the opposite of austere, boring or punishing. Our starter is a perfect example of the spirit of the place: jalapeno hush puppies, served with whipped maple butter. The hush puppies were lovely. Piping hot and studded with bits of hot pepper, they were made most delicious by the sweet, round flavor of the butter, which melted and pooled on contact. (We actually sneaked the butter off the plate and held onto it for the rest of the meal. I have resolved to serve as many things as possible with maple butter in future.)Our waitress recommended we each get both an appetizer and a main course; to tell the truth, we would have been fine forgoing at least one of the four dishes, but it was nice to taste so many things. I started with the barbecue carrot buns, which were served with a salad of cucumber, sesame and ginger. The salad was actually my favorite part of the dish; the buns, while tasty, were a bit under-seasoned and not quite, well, barbecue-y enough.
Anica's starter, on the other hand, was magnificent. A root vegetable salad served with greens, it had pumpkin as well as acorn and butternut squash. The croutons were flavored with blue cheese, and the crispy things were pepitas, pumpkin seeds coated with chickpea flour and fried. The dressing on this was insanely delicious - I don't buy bottled dressing, but if the chef were to bottle this, I'd spring for a whole case.
My picture of Anica's main was beyond blurry, so you're just going to have to trust me when I tell you that it was a plate of parsnip gnocchi served with a creamy root vegetable sauce and topped with carrot cake crumbs. It was tasty, but a bit on the sweet side.
We both loved my main, which featured all kinds of corn goodness: grits, huitlachoche (a delicious fungus that infects corn in a most wonderful way) and creamy corn, topped with pickled shiitakes (Yay, pickles!), an egg poached and fried in tempura batter, and a bit of salted ricotta. I. Was. In. Heaven. The egg and mushrooms in particularly made the dish for me.Finally, dessert. All through April, the restaurant ran a special on dessert - order one, get one free! Since there are only four desserts on the menu, full-stop, we were able to try a bit of everything! Clockwise from the top, we have pea and mint ice cream cake, red pepper red velvet cake, caramel pudding with caramel popcorn, and fennel funnel cake. The pudding won the day, by a long shot, but the red velvet cake was really interesting, too.
All in all, a wonderful meal. This is vegetarian cooking at its richest and most generous. No shortage of creativity, flavor or texture to be found here. Just some of the most delicious butter of all time, and popcorn-flavored pudding. Yum.
Dirt Candy
430 East 9th Street (Between 1st and A)
212.228.7732
On the Wednesday of my staycation, I took a little walk through the West Village. I started out with lunch at Chelsea Thai (technically just north of said West Village), then made my way south and east. I encountered loads of goodies and pretty things along the way. Have a look!
First, while still at Chelsea Market, I took a peek into the mini Jacques Torres outlet across from Chelsea Thai. The chocolate chip cookies looked tempting, but I had another treat in mind.
Cherry blossoms were in full bloom along Hudson Street. Pretty, and so short-lived - the floral equivalent of spring in New York.
I passed Myers of Keswick, a charming little shop fully stocked with all kinds of goodies from the United Kingdom. The price of curing homesickness may be a bit steep, but ex-pat Brits in New York tend to flock here in any case in search of Lyle's Golden Syrup and authentic Cadbury chocolates.
I stopped into Chocolate Bar in desperate search of one of my own favorite treats: their milky-satly-pretzel bar. But, sadly, they were out! Cue my pout and change of direction to the east.
Typical West Village townhouses on Jane Street. I'd move here in a heartbeat. Anyone care to subsidize? Hmmmmm?
At the corner of West 4th and Bleecker, I stopped into the original outpost of Magnolia Bakery (they now have stores in Midtown and on the Upper West Side). While I'm not a huge fan of their cakes or cupcakes (too sweet, chewy instead of moist), I do love their little 75-cent chocolate chip cookies, though, so I bought one of them and kept on trucking. (But not before snapping a shot of their gorgeous mason jars full of sprinkles! I love this photo.)
Eventually, I made my way over to Washington Square Park, where I lounged in the sun, read a book, and generally enjoyed the fact that I had nowhere to be at that particular moment in time. Now that, my friends, is luxury indeed.
After lunch at Nam Son, Emi, Miya and I walked over to Chinatown Ice Cream Factory for a sweet, cold treat. The Ice Cream Factory is known for its fresh product and its unusual flavors, and this visit didn't disappoint. Miya ordered the lychee, which she shared with an ice cream-crazy Emi.
I ordered the Zen butter, a combination of peanut butter and sesame seeds. It's more sesame-y than peanut-y, but it's 100% delicious. Creamy, cold and satisfying. Rich in a way that we're not really used to when it comes to ice cream, it's dense and nutty, but not even a little bit sweet. Good stuff.
Chinatown Ice Cream Factory
65 Bayard (Between Mott and Elizabeth)
212.608.4170
On Saturday, all of Union Square Greenmarket smelled of lilacs. It seemed every vendor in the park had bunches of them for sale. It was heavenly.
And this NYC Grows woolly pocket garden was pretty cool, too. Each pocket was planted with a different vegetable, flower or herb. Pretty freaking neat, and a reminder that, even in this most urban of landscapes, we need plant life to keep us sane, healthy and well-fed. (I planted my windowsill herb garden this weekend; how about you?)
Last Sunday, I met my friends Caroline and Emily for brunch at Pulino's, Keith McNally's latest restaurant, and the newest addition to the now-completely-gentrified corner of Bowery and Houston. McNally is the force behind the Odéon, Balthazar, Schiller's Liquor Bar, Pastis...you get the idea. He specializes in creating buzz paired with seemingly time-worn atmosphere, and Pulino's is no exception to the rule.
Ostensibly a pizza restaurant (McNally hired San Francisco's Nate Appleman to create the menu and run the joint), it's first and foremost a gathering place for hipsters, hangers-on and (at brunch, at least) downtown parents and their children.The three of us decided to share a few things, starting with an appetizer of asparagus, ramps and rhubarb. The dish was clearly meant to be a celebration of early spring, featuring the season's three star ingredients. The grassy asparagus, tart rhubarb and stinky ramps actually went quite well together; the flavors weren't revolutionary, but it was tasty. The dish was completely overwhelmed, however, by two things: the mound of far-too-peppery black pepper mascarpone hiding beneath the asparagus, and the price: $14.
Next, we tried the margherita pizza, which we ordered with an egg on top. The pizza was very good - crisp but still chewy, and the sauce, cheese and basil were each top-notch. The egg was put on a bit early and the yolk was cooked all the way through, which was a bit disappointing. Overall, though, it's a solid pizza.
The star of the meal, by far, was the sweet pizza we shared as a dessert. It was topped with pecorino, pears, cinnamon and sugar (and, my guess is, a bit of butter). It was just sweet enough, and the pears were still a bit firm and not at all mushy. We devoured this, licked our fingers, and resolved to come back and order a large one very, very soon.
Pulino's
282 Bowery (at Houston Street)
212.226.1966
Happy Saturday, everyone! I spent my morning down at the Union Square Greenmarket, and returned home with quite a haul (potted herbs for my windowsill, asparagus, ramps, eggs, chives, potatoes). Before I head back out into the sunshine to run some errands, it's time for this week's Treasury!
First, a look at a gorgeous apartment in Bruges, widely regarded as Belgium's most picturesque town. The 17th-century house overlooks a canal, and is absolutely beautiful. I think the master bedroom nestled in the beamed eaves may be my favorite part. (Ignore the stuffed dogs, please.)
Next, these adorable ceramic baskets, which are modeled after the cardboard and paper varieties you see in markets all summer long. Imagine them piled high with raspberries, blueberries, strawberries or lemons. Gorgeous, right? I collect white ceramics, and these are going on my wish list, immediately. (Via the incomparable Creature Comforts.)
Finally, from Pink of Perfection, a recipe for a spring ragout of vegetables that looks absolutely too-licious. Radishes, snow peas, asparagus and herbs galore are enriched by butter, mustard and Parmesan cheese. Sounds like my kind of vegetables.
Last Saturday, my cousin Jason and his lovely wife Abby invited me out to Brooklyn for dinner. They moved to Greenpoint late last year, and are loving the neighborhood. I'd never been, so I was eager to visit and check out their new digs and environs. Jason came and picked me up from my apartment (He has a car - very exciting for this Manhattanite!) and took me on a little tour of the neighborhood before we headed back to his place for a cocktail with Abby. Abby's brother Richard was there as well - a most excellent surprise - and after a martini, we headed around the corner for dinner at Anella.
Jason and Abby are no slouches when it comes to food, and since they've been raving about Anella ever since they discovered it last fall, I knew I was in for a treat. It's a tiny, U-shaped space with a little bar running along the center of the restaurant. We had to wait about half an hour for a table, so we enjoyed another cocktail. I went for the Heering Manhattan, made with rye, Heering cherry liqueur, dry vermouth and bitters. It was fabulous - a bit sweet, but complex enough to keep my attention.
Everything we ate was delicious - the asparagus with crispy egg, the mussels with brie butter and french fries, the strozapreti with bacon. But my favorite dish of the night, far and away, was the romaine heart salad. It was served chilled, on an ice-cold plate. The dressing was a simple combination of crème fraiche and lemon juice, and sprinkled atop the whole thing was a smattering of dill, some buttery bread crumbs, finely chopped white onion and - the pièce de resistance - fried capers.
If you've never had fried capers, now is the time to start. They are absolutely divine. Frying a caper for a couple of minutes opens it up into a flower-like shape, and brings out the nutty qualities of the normally briny berry. They're fantastic with loads of different dishes - try sprinkling them on top of pasta, salads, or even scrambled eggs. You can't go wrong.
But first, of course, try them with this. I feel pretty good about this tribute to Anella's delicious dish, but please let me know if you can think of ways to improve upon it.
Hearts of Romaine with Lemon, Crème Fraiche and Fried Capers
Adapted from Anella
1/4 cup plus one tablespoon canola oil, divided
2 tbs. capers, rinsed, drained and dried for 30 minutes on paper towels
1 tbs. butter
1 slice bread (I used whole wheat, but you can use whatever you like.)
3 tbs. crème fraiche
1 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 romaine heart, halved lengthwise
1 tbs. dill, finely chopped
1 tbs. white onion, minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Fry the capers:
In a small skillet or saucepan set over medium-high heat, heat 1/4 cup of the canola oil until very hot. (A drop of water flicked onto the surface should crackle and evaporate immediately.) Add the capers and fry until they turn dark brown and smell nutty. Turn off the heat and, using a slotted spoon, remove the capers to a plate covered with paper towels. Set aside.
Make the buttery croutons:
In a medium skillet set over medium-high heat, heat the remaining canola oil with the butter. Once the butter has melted and is slightly foamy, add the slice of bread and turn the heat down slightly. Toast until dark brown on one side, then flip and toast the other side. Remove to a cutting board and slice into 1/4 or 1/2 inch squares. Set aside.
Make the dressing:
In a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraiche and lemon juice. The dressing should have a thick but drizzle-able consistency, like homemade ranch dressing. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
Assemble the salad:
Place the romaine heart halves side by side on a chilled plate. Drizzle generously with the dressing (Use it all; don't be afraid.), then sprinkle with the dill. Follow with the onion, then the croutons, and finally the capers. Finish with a bit of salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Serves one, generously, or two, if you're really, really good at sharing.
Last Friday, I met my friend Miya and her adorable daughter Emi down in Chinatown. Our goal: enjoy some tasty, nourishing pho. Miya's a vegetarian, and my friend Rich (who has excellent taste) had recommended the veggie pho at Nam Son, so that's where we went. And boy, was he right.
I ordered the pho with top round, brisket and tendon, while Miya went for veggie with veggie broth. Both were about six bucks, making them the most ridiculous bargains available. Seriously, these were huge bowls of soup. And they were oh-so-tasty.My beef pho had a traditional, spice-scented broth. The clove and anise came through loud and clear, emphasized by the rich beefiness of the soup. One of the things I love about broth is the way it can be so rich and yet almost completely devoid of fat. It sucks all the flavor out of the bones and becomes something entirely new. It's almost alchemy.
When it came to the meat, I was particularly fond of the tender brisket. It practially melted in my mouth, and was full to bursting with beef flavor. The tendon wasn't bad, but there was a bit much of it for my taste. I'd much rather have had double the brisket and half the tendon. One only needs so much chewiness. And the noodles were pretty good, too - firm enough to stand up to the hot soup, but still tender.
Miya's veggie version was no slouch, either. Absolutely chock full of veggies and tofu, it was quite a sight to see. We got to work doctoring our bowls with hoisin sauce, Sriracha (for me; none for Miya, since Emi was sharing her noodles), bean sprouts and Thai basil. The doctoring might be the best part, actually - working for your supper, as it were.
Nam Son
245 Grand Street (Between Chrystie and Bowery)
212.966.6507?
Lady M is a remarkably dainty little pastry shop in the heart of the Upper East Side. (Seriously. 78th and Madison - this is society matron territory at its best.) Its location helps to explain its bustling weekday afternoon trade (It also helps that there's little like it in the neighborhood, so
even working stiffs tend to visit for a quick coffee break.) as well as its absolutely obscene prices.
You'll pay $7.00 for a cappuccino here, and I can admit that it's a good cappuccino. But the real star of the show is the pastry, and the cakes in particular.
The shop's aesthetic mirrors that of its product: spare but luxe, light but creamy, elegant but decadent. Their signature cake is called the Mille Crêpes, and it's essentially 20 (not a thousand, as the name suggests) paper-thin crêpes stacked one on top of the other. Pastry cream is mixed with whipped cream and sandwiched in between each layer, and the top is covered in a fine, bruléed sugar crust. It is, in a word, delicious. (It's also pretty easy to copy; check out my recipe for it over here. That's a photo of it below.)
Last week, I decided to branch out from my usual crêpes cake routine to try the lemon meringue cake, a typical Lady M spin on a classic. Fluffy lemon cake replaces the lemon curd pie filling. A thin schmear of lemon custard separates the two cake layers, and the whole thing is topped by a perfect mountain of slightly toasted meringue.
It's a pretty good dessert, though I think the cake could be a bit tarter, which would make it a far better foil for the sweet-sweet-sweet meringue. All in all, it can't ever replace the Mille Crêpes in my estimation, but it's still pretty dang tasty.
What better time than a staycation to brush up on my art? I spent an afternoon last week at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which, despite its lying only six short blocks from my apartment, I had not visited in almost a year.
It was a gloomy day outside, and the sky was that bright white color you see on chilly afternoons. The stone glowed under the filtered light, and the ladies decorating the cornices looked a bit forboding.The Met can seem imposing from certain angles, but I love that its sweep of stairs is so often - day or night - softened by the presence of pairs of friends sitting, chatting, and possibly enjoying a hot dog from the vendors that sell them (overpriced, of course, this is tourist central) down on the Fifth Avenue curb.
This is the Upper East Side at its finest, all neoclassical and proper. The area near the museum is well worth a wander, especially on a nice day. Me, I spent my time checking out the incredible exhibition of the Limbourg brothers' illuminated manuscript, Les Belles Heures du Duc de Berry. An incredibly tactile and awe-inspiring experience, if I do say so myself. You can get within inches of the folios and examine them with a museum-provided magnifying glass. I felt like a proper Sherlock Holmes, searching for meaning in the detailed borders, and gaping at the pin-pricked gold leaf that sparkled like the sun.Maybe I shouldn't wait so long next time.
Deb of Smitten Kitchen is a prodigiously talented cook, baker and photographer. She makes everything look delicious, and the jam tart she posted last week is no exception. She rightly points out that local fruit is not yet in bloom (despite our wealth of onions and eggs), and what better substitute is there than jam?
The tart is a modified version of a recipe that appears in David Lebovitz's new cookbook, Ready for Dessert. It's as easy as can be, with a dough made in the food processor and pressed into the tart pan - no rolling involved! The polenta (or corn meal) and eggs make the crust hearty and fuss-free, and the whole thing keeps wonderfully for several days (I made mine on Tuesday and was still eating it on Saturday.).
Choose any jam you like; I used a combination of blackberry and strawberry, which turned out to be delicious. The slightly sour blackberries tempered the sweet strawberries, and the whole thing was incredibly addictive. The one major change I made was swapping in vanilla extract for almond (I don't particularly care for almond extract.). Feel free to swap it back if that's your thing.
I may make a peach one tonight. I mean, how else can you have peaches in April?
Easy Jam Tart
Adapted from Smitten Kitchen
1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup stone-ground cornmeal or polenta
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
9 tbs. unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 egg, whole
1 egg, separated
1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/3 cups jam or marmalade
1 tbs. coarse-crystal or granulated sugar
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt. In a food processor, pulse the butter and 1/2 cup sugar together until smooth. Add the egg and egg yolk along with the vanilla and pulse until combined. With the processor on, gradually add the flour mixture through the feed tube and mix until the dough just comes together.
Transfer about one-third of the dough to a lightly floured counter and shape it into a log about 2 inches in diameter. Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate it until needed. If the shelves in your fridge are wire, place the log on a plate before putting in the fridge.
Transfer the remaining dough to a buttered 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Using your hands or the flat bottom of a measuring cup, press the dough evenly into the bottom. Press the dough up the sides to the rim of the pan and set the tart pan on a baking sheet. Refrigerate the dough-lined pan until firm, at least one hour.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spread the jam or marmalade evenly over the dough in the pan. Cut the chilled dough into very thin discs with a sharp paring knife. Arrange them slightly overlapped in concentric circles over the jam to form a top crust. (I used a square tart pan, so I did mine in rows, and let the jam peek out a bit.) Using a fork, beat the remaining egg white with a teaspoon of water until frothy; brush evenly over the tart lid and then sprinkle with1 tbs. of coarse sugar. Bake until the top crust is golden brown, about 20-25 minutes. Let cool completely before serving.
Keeps very well, wrapped tightly, at room temperature.
Along with ramps, pea greens are one of my favorite early-spring treats. They're a bit peppery, though not so strong as arugula, and go beautifully with mustard, honey and duck. Which is exactly how I like to celebrate their arrival. I did just that for lunch last Tuesday, before an edifying outing to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
I've shared this recipe before, but I think it bears repeating. It's easy and delicious, and makes a comfortingly simple meal out of duck legs, another of my favorite things. Yum.
Fresh Fettuccine with Pea Greens and Duck
1 duck leg, skin-side seasoned with salt and pepper
3 tsp. olive oil, separated
1 small shallot, minced
1 garlic clove, sliced
2 loosely-packed cups pea greens, separated
1 tbs. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. honey
2 tbs. dry white wine (or dry Vermouth)
1/4 cup finely chopped chives
1/4 lb. frsh fettucine, cooked according to package instructions
1/2 tbs. unsalted butter
Salt and pepper, to taste
Pre-heat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. In a small skillet set over high heat, heat 1 tsp. of the olive oil for a minute or two. Place the duck leg in the skillet, skin-side down, and let sear on high heat for a minute, then reduce heat to medium and continue to cook for three to four more minutes, until the skin is dark brown and crispy. Turn the leg over and transfer the skillet to the oven. Cook for 10 minutes, then remove from oven and let sit while you prepare the pasta.
In a medium skillet set over medium-high heat, saute the shallots in two teaspoons of the olive oil until transluscent, about one minute. Add the garlic and saute for a minute more. Add the pea greens and chives and saute for two minutes, or until wilted. Add the mustard & honey to the pan and stir into the greens, shallots and garlic, until both are evenly distributed. Cook for two minutes, then add the wine.
Stir briskly, making sure you get any good brown bits from the pottom of the skillet incorporated into the sauce, then turn the heat down until the pasta is ready. Once pasta is ready, drain (Do NOT rinse!) and add to the skillet. Turn the heat to medium and cook the pasta and sauce together for a few minutes, stirring to distribute the sauce throughout the pasta. Add the butter stir once or twice to incorporate, and turn off the heat.
Line your plate with the remaining pea greens, top with the pasta, and place the duck leg on top. Sprinkle the remaining chives over everything, season to taste, and eat!
Serves one, generously.
It's that odd in-between time here in New York, when the seasons are paused mid-shift. Balmy spring dominates after noon, but in the mornings, the air still nips at you like it's winter. This past Saturday, I arrived at the Union Square Greenmarket under cool, gray skies. One of the first sights to greet me was a clear indicator of the chilly weather: hot apple cider!
Spring was on display, too, though, in the form of azaleas...
...and just-beginning-to-bloom lilacs...
...and edible flowers.
The perfect breakfast, no matter what the season? Ronnybrook's coffee-flavored milk. Remember when your parents would put just a smidge of their coffee in your milk to make you feel all grown-up? This is like that, but creamier. It's decadent, it's naughty, and I love it.
Last Monday, I decided to spend the first evening of my staycation venturing out to the (relatively new) Ikea in Red Hook. Red Hook is a formerly industrial enclave in the southwestern corner of Brooklyn, and is full of cool old warehouses converted into condo and studio space. To get to Ikea, you can take the subway and a free shuttle, or you can go glam and hop on the water taxi that leaves from the Wall Street pier.
Since I rarely make it onto the water (over or under it, surely, but not onto it), I opted for the latter option. Walking down Wall Street from Broadway reminded me of how much I love the financial district - it's dead as a doornail at night, but its streets are narrow, twisty and canyon-like in a way that no other part of the city is. It's downright gorgeous, and, during the day, full of energy.I won't bore you with the details of my Ikea run, but I will share some photos from the ride. The taxi terminal lies just south of the Brooklyn Bridge, and the views are spectacular. I love how, even from a distance, the bridge feels so touchable. Looking at it is like touching the sun-warmed stone itself.
Above is a shot of downtown Manhattan, with the water taxi sentry standing guard. Not to be morbid, but I'm still not used to that gaping hole in the skyline, and I don't think I ever will be.Next up, Lady Liberty! People who come to visit New York are often surprised by how large the harbor is; this is the closest shot I could grab of the Statue, even with full zoom. She technically lies on the New Jersey side of the harbor, something that has caused quite a bit of squabbling over the years.
Finally, land is sighted! This is a view of Ikea from the taxi; the ride took about 15 minutes total, and couldn't have been lovelier. I wouldn't mind a commute like this one, no sirree.
I seem to be on a bit of an egg kick these days, in part because I'm not in the mood for defrosting anything protein-ish from my freezer, and in part because they're the sort of thing you can't really pack for lunch. I don't get to eat them too often during the week, and so I tend to gorge on them when I'm home.
For lunch the other day, I decided I wanted rice, but also an egg. Well, easy enough. Rice and eggs are a classic combination. Eggs are scrambled into fried rice, served fried on top of bibimbap, and huevos con arroz is literally that: eggs scrambled with rice. And so, for lunch, I improvised a bit. I cooked up some basic white rice, and worked on the topping in the meantime.
Leftover steamed broccoli was sauteed with garlic, soy sauce and a touch of rice wine vinegar (White wine vinegar will do in a pinch.). An egg was fried. Chives were sprinkled, and Sriracha was squeezed. Lunch was ready in ten minutes flat, and was delicious and satisfying.
It's not bibimbap (no array of marinated veggies, no delicious crust on the rice), but it assuaged the craving and made me a happy lady, so I consider it a mission accomplished.
Queenie's Craving Relief Rice
1/2 cup white rice
2 tsp. plus one tbs. canola oil, divided
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup vegetables, chopped
1 tsp. rice wine vinegar
3 tsp. soy sauce, divided
1/4 tsp. sugar
1 egg
1 tbs. chives, finely chopped
Sriracha, for serving
Cook the rice according to the package directions. Set aside, covered, and keep warm.
Meanwhile, heat two teaspoons of the canola oil in a small skillet set over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute until fragrant and golden, about three minutes. Add the vegetables to the skillet and saute for a few minutes until warmed or cooked through, then add the vinegar, one teaspoon of soy sauce and the sugar. Cook until most of the liquid is absorbed. Transfer the vegetable mixture to a small bowl and wipe out the skillet.
Heat the remaining canola oil in the skillet over medium heat. Once hot, add the egg and fry until the whites are just set. Turn off the heat. Place the rice in a bowl, top with the vegetables, and then with the egg. Drizzle the remaining soy sauce over everything, then add the chives and Sriracha to taste. Serve immediately.
Serves one.
One of the best parts of any staycation is a hot, delicious breakfast. Most mornings, breakfast means some plain yogurt doctored with a dollop of jam or honey, eaten at my desk, typically while answering any emails that came in overnight.
Staycation breakfast, though, means farm eggs scrambled in butter, filled with sauteed ramps. Staycation breakfast, my friends, is awesome.
Scrambled Eggs with Ramps
2 tbs. unsalted butter, divided
5-6 ramps, cleaned, trimmed and chopped into 1-inch pieces
2 eggs, as fresh as can be
2 tbs. milk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a small skillet set over medium heat, melt one tablespoon of the butter until it just begins to foam. Add the ramps and a teeny pinch of salt. Saute for a few minutes, until the ramp leaves are dark green, almost black, and the stalks are tender and beginning to brown. Season with a pinch of pepper.
Remove the ramps from the skillet and wipe out the pan with a paper towel. Return the skillet to medium heat, and melt the second tablespoon of butter, making sure it coats the bottom and sides of the skillet.
Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and milk together in a small bowl, using a fork. Add to the skillet and scramble gently. As the eggs begin to come together, add the ramps back into the pan and stir everything together. Continue to scramble until the eggs are just cooked (or longer, if you prefer drier eggs). Serve immediately.
Serves one.
On Saturday, after dropping off a few bridesmaid's dresses near Gramercy Park (for a good cause), I walked across Gramercy and over to Chelsea to buy some organizational aids at The Container Store. Along the way, I realized I was hungry and decided to stop into the eminently convenient and delicious City Bakery.
The last time I blogged about City Bakery, it was all about their tasty brunch and ridiculous hot chocolate (complete with homemade marshmallows, of course). Since it wasn't too chilly out and I'd already eaten an early lunch, three o'clock seemed just the time for a chocolate chip cookie.
Oh my god, the cookie. City Bakery's chocolate chip cookie is a perfect blend of the crunchy and the chewy - it alternates between the two textures, chewy where it's a bit thicker, and crunchy in the little cookie cracks and along the edges. The chocolate is melty, smooth and rich, and the whole thing is just the right size for a satisfying snack.
And does it photograph beautifully, or what? Drool.
City Bakery
3 West 18th Street (Between 5th and 6th Avenues)
212.366.1414
A few weeks ago, when Louisa was in town, I had a superlative meal at Frankie's Spuntino down on Clinton Street. You may remember my desperate attempt to recreate their roasted beet and avocado salad; this post is about my imitation version of their (justly) famous cavatelli with browned butter and hot sausage.
This pasta is, in a word, too-licious. While sage and browned butter are a well-known and time-honored pair, the addition of a pinch of garlic and some porky, spicy sausage really make the dish sing. The sauce, nothing more than butter and pasta cooking water, is silky and spare, and the sausage's snap plays beautifully with the chewiness of the al dente pasta.
Some versions I found online called for a bit more sage; I find it's better with about half a cup between two people. It's enough to lend a good dose of piney flavor without making every bit overwhelmingly herbal. And, as is my wont, I added a bit more garlic than most versions because, well, I like garlic. You might want to adjust your seasonings depending on the sausage you use (if it's heavy on the fennel, for example, you might want less sage), but this is a remarkably forgiving meal.
Finally, the question of what sort of pasta to use. I searched high and low for cavatelli this weekend, but to no avail. Instead, I went for orecchiette. I've used penne in earlier variations, but I think the orecchiette is more suited to the dish - but, if you can find cavatelli, please use it! It's even more delightfully chewy than orecchiette.
Oh, and, for my veggie friends - leave out the sausage, and sub in a teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes. All of the heat, none of the meat! (Look, Mom, I made a rhyme!)
Frankie's [Orecchiette] with Browned Butter and Hot Sausage
1/2 lb. orecchiette or cavatelli
1 tbs. canola oil
2 links hot pork sausage
4 tbs. butter
1/2 cup sage leaves, whole
4 cloves garlic, chopped
Parmesan cheese, for serving
Salt and pepper
Cook the pasta in salted, boiling water until just al dente. Set aside, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Meanwhile, in a medium skillet set over moderately high heat, brown the sausage links until dark brown on all sides. The sausages should be just barely cooked through.
Wipe out the skillet and turn the heat to medium. Add the butter and melt it and then continue to cook until the milk solids begin to turn brown and smell nutty. Add the sage and garlic and cook for a minute to release the flavors. Slice the sausages crosswise into rounds and add back to the pan. Add the cooked pasta to the pan, along with a bit of the cooking water. Cook over medium heat until the the pasta has absorbed a good bit of the sauce and everything is well-combined.
Transfer the pasta and sauce to two bowls or plates, sprinkle lightly with salt, pepper and parmesan, and serve immediately.
Serves 2.
Every year, I spend a week off from work just enjoying New York City. Living in New York, it's easy to forget that the city is as big or as full of amazing experiences as it is. You get into a rhythm (mine is work, cooking, theatre, drinks with friends) and don't stop to drink in the multitude of opportunities right smack in front of you.
My annual staycations are meant as an antidote to that particular brand of lethargy. This year, I'm planning to spend some time in Brooklyn (Williamsburg one day; DUMBO and Cobble Hill/Carroll Gardens another), hit a few museums (I want to see this illumination exhibit at the Met in particular) and do some serious windowsill gardening. I also want to carve out some time to spend with my friend Miya, who's working on decorating her new apartment. Can anyone say inspiration board?
Any suggestions or requests for how I spend my time this week? Dinners at Dirt Candy and SHO Shaun Hergatt are already on the itinerary. Am also planning to dig into a bowl of pho at some point, visit Marlow & Sons for lunch, and stop by Blue Bottle for some coffee. What else shall I do, dear readers?
Bring on the ideas!
Happy Saturday, folks! It's a blustery day here in New York, and I've just returned from a chilly trip to Union Square for my weekly provisions (Including ramps, mais oui!). I've just begun a 10-day staycation (more on that later), and I can't wait to get to it. Before that, though, it's time for this week's edition of the Treasury!First up, the coolest house tour I've seen in quite a while: impeccably styled, modern dollhouses, courtesy of the New York Times. If you can't afford a houseful of full-size mid-century furniture, why not go the miniature route?
Next, a nerdy delight for food and language lovers alike! Food52 has begun publishing food crosswords by puzzle-maker Michelle Humes. They're pretty fun, and far easier than the Times' Friday puzzle. Brush up on your culinary trivia and dive in!
Finally, another house tour (life-size, this time). This one is of the most adorable houseboat you've ever seen. Josie Curran and her husband share this boat in Hampton Court in southwest London. It's pretty amazing; I'd live there in a heartbeat, and not just because it's in one of my most favorite cities on earth.
This warm weather we've been having here in New York has me craving summer foods. Berries, beans, stone fruits, corn, tomatoes, cucumbers (the gorgeous, flavorful, juicy kind you only get in June and July) - and, of course, ice cream.

What are you craving these days?
On Friday night, Cristin and I met up at Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto to enjoy some Italian nibbles and dish about the goings-on in our lives. We ordered a bottle of red wine along with come caponata, brussels sprouts, burrata and arista.
First up was the caponata, a sweet and tangy eggplant relish studded with stewed onions and peppers. This was delicious - alternately musky and bright in flavor, and full of interesting texture. It was particularly tasty (and sinful) heaped onto the small slices of focaccia that came in our little bread bowl. The salt on top of the focaccia set off the sweet caponata beautifully.
Next, the arista. Arista is pork loin, slow roasted and basted with an assortment of spices. It's served cold, sliced thin, and it's quite yummy. One of the subtler breeds of salumi, it's gently porky and lightly fatty. Perfect for a middle course on a warm spring night - and I suspect it'd make a tasty sandwich, too.
Of all the dishes we ordered, the burrata was least exciting. It was good, but not creamy or magical enough to write home about. I was a bit underwhelmed, to be honest.
Last, but most definitely not least: the brussels sprouts. Lightly sauteed in pancetta fat (the pancetta itself was tossed back into the mix as a finishing touch) and touched with red wine vinegar, this dish represents three of my favorite things brought together in one perfect place. They'll be off the menu soon, since the cold weather is pretty much over, so go soon or go home.
Overall, I found Salumeria Rosi to be pretty darn good - a good value, great service, and pretty much everything we tasted was delicious. I'll definitely be back, and I can't wait to sample some more salumi options when I go.
Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto
283 Amsterdam Ave. (Between 73rd and 74th Streets)
212-877-4800
It's still early spring when it comes to Greenmarket eats, but that doesn't mean you can't find some goodies. The potatoes are fabulous right now (I'm addicted to a waxy breed named Nicola.), and the celeriac abounds.
And you can find some sweet, fat carrots - not like the bland specimens you sometimes get in grocery stores.These may look like parsnips, but they're actually parsley root, and they're delicious.
So, this week, instead of buying, say, tomatoes and peppers from your grocery store, why not try to get out to your local market and see what's in season? (Though, I suppose, if you live in the southern hemisphere, that might be peppers and tomatoes!)
'Tis the season, my friends: the season for ramps. If you live on the eastern seaboard of the United States, chances are you've encountered ramps at least once. They're a wild onion prized for their unique stank and delectable, meaty flavor. They look a bit like a scallion, but with a purple tinge, slightly more bulbous, um, bulb and flat, dark green leaves. They pair gorgeously with anything smoked (like bacon), sweet (like corn or stone fruits) or tangy (like vinegar). And I can't get enough.
Last Saturday, after hearing that ramps had made their first Greenmarket appearance on Wednesday, I made sure to be up good and early for a trip down to Union Square. Turns out the slightly schizophrenic weather we've been having this year (freezing cold, then hot, then rainy and cool, then warm) is perfect weather for growing ramps, and that's why they're available a couple weeks earlier than normal.I arrived just as the clock struck eight AM and hoofed it over to the Mountain Sweet Berry Farm Stand at 16th and Broadway. Sure enough, two crates full of ramps stood at attention, just waiting to be swarmed by food-obsessed New Yorkers like me (and you!). I was early enough to avoid any kind of line, and was even able to snap a few photos without being shoved from behind by ramp-mad hordes. And look what I spotted! (Pun not intended, but not edited out, either.)
Apparently, I was in good company. The Spotted Pig's bike, complete with cooler, was sitting right there, clearly awaiting a pre-ordered take of the morning's ramp harvest. After a swing through the market (and a stop in Whole Foods for some bacon, since Flying Pigs Farm was out), I jumped back on the 4 train to head uptown for a breakfast of champions.
Fresh fettucine with ramps, bacon and an egg is my traditional dish of celebration. I welcome ramps with open arms, pasta and pork. It's just my way. (Using fettucine and eggs from the Greenmarket helps keep things local, fresh and delicious.)
Trust me: you should run out right now to make this. (Vegetarian folk, just sub in a tablespoon or so of olive oil for the bacon fat, and don't skimp on the cheese. It's almost as good as the bacony version. A hit of cream or half and half wouldn't hurt you, either.)
Fresh Fettucine with Ramps, Bacon and an Egg
2 slices thick-cut, maple-cured bacon cut crosswise into 3/4 inch pieces
1/2 bunch of ramps, cleaned and chopped into one-inch lengths (about 1 cup)
1/4 pound fresh fettucine, cooked to al dente and drained (save 1/4 cup of the cooking water)
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
1 tbs. olive oil
1 egg
Salt and pepper
Set a medium skillet over high heat; heat until hot. Turn heat down to medium high and add the bacon to the pan. Cook slowly, rendering the fat until the bacon is just crispy. Remove the bacon pieces with a slotted spoon.
Add the ramps to the pain and saute them in the bacon fat, cooking until the white parts begin to brown. Season (lightly) with salt and pepper, and return the bacon to the pan. Add the fettucine and stir with tongs to combine the sauce with the pasta, adding a little pasta water if things need moisture. Turn off the heat.
In a small skillet, heat the olive oil over meidum heat. Once it's hot, crack the egg into the pan and fry until the edges just begin to turn crispy. Mound the pasta on a plate or in a bowl, top with the fried egg and parmesan cheese, and eat!
Serves one.
Good morning, my lovelies! It's a gorgeous, crisp Saturday morning here in New York - and, perhaps even more exciting than the weather: I bought my first ramps of the season this morning!
I made it to the Greenmarket by eight o'clock, and by eight-o'-five I had two bunches of those babies in my hot little hands. As I type, I'm rendering some maple bacon in which to cook about a third of my haul. (Pickling will come later in the season.) In the meantime, let's get down to Treasury business!
First up, some truly adorable pillows from MissMosh, a cute Etsy shop. I'm particularly taken with the chevron pillow, and am seriously considering ordering one in blue or coral for my living room armchair. Can't get enough of zigzags right now!
Next up, the gorgeous home of actress Julie Bowen (from Modern Family), decorated by her sister, the talented LA-based designer Molly Luetkemeyer. I love the house's modern, unstuffy feel, especially the use of color throughout. I could live here, for sure. And that bathroom? I die.
Finally, from Design Crush, an awesome collection of signage photography, including one with a quote from Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, one of my all-time favorite movies. These photos are forlornly beautiful, each nodding gently to a more prosperous era. And, you know...pancakes!
One of the classic pleasures of New York life is lunch from a halal food truck. Nothing says power lunch like a styrofoam box full of rice, iceberg lettuce and chicken thighs, topped with generous glugs of white sauce and hot sauce.
I typically indulge in what we New Yorkers fondly term "street meat" a couple of times a month, usually when I haven't had time to make lunch the night before. It's cheap, it's filling, and, frankly - it's delicious. Sometimes you can't beat a guilty pleasure, and street meat fits the bill in more ways than one. It's pretty bad for you - that mayonnaise-based sauce, the oil in which the chicken is cooked, the copious amounts of white rice...but it's also just so damn tasty.
And if you doubt its iconic stature, recall the scene in Working Girl where Harrison Ford & Melanie Griffith talk serious business over gyros from a cart. Nothing is more New York than that, my friends. (Except for the scene where she gets splashed in traffic, adding insult to injury. We've all been there, am I right?)
Last weekend, I was walking home from the subway when I passed the Street Sweets truck. I'd been fancying a bit of something sweet, maybe chocolate, and I spied a few fudgey brownies in the display case. I queued up behind a woman who spent a not inconsiderable amount of time choosing an Easter bunny, and then it was my turn.
Service at the truck was great, and I was especially impressed when they asked whether I wanted a brownie from the corner, middle or edge of the pan. Preferring a high fudge-to-crumble ratio, I of course asked for a middle piece. The crew placed my brownie in a little paper bag sealed with an adorable, giant sticker, and I set off home to enjoy my booty.
The brownie was delicious. In fact, I'd venture to say that it was almost as good as the brownies my mother makes, and that's high praise indeed. It was dark and rich, full of good chocolate flavor. The crust on top was minimally crumbly, and there were no nuts to get in the way of the chocolate. (Those of you who like nuts in your brownies? You're just...wrong. Sorry to be the one to break it to you. Kisses!)
I'd definitely go back - and I wouldn't mind trying one of the filled brioches, either. No, sirree.
Street Sweets
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Chilly as it was over the weekend, flowers abounded at the Greenmarket. Daffodils, hydrangea and cherry blossom branches were particularly plentiful, as they often are at this time of year. But it's still too cold for the orchids, who warmed their toes by the warmth of a little transportable heater.
It's still too early for spring chickens, but their eggs are on full display, along with small, bluish pheasant eggs and their large, pale duck cousins. Me? I settled for some delicious chicken eggs from Knoll Crest, my favorite of all.
Those of you who live in the northeastern United States no doubt shared my disappointment in the subfreezing temperatures we experienced this weekend. It's the end of March; I shouldn't be schlepping to the Greenmarket in gloves, a scarf and my winter coat!
But schlep I did, and I'm better off for it. Root vegetables abounded, and I decided that some celeriac (also known as celery root) soup would be just the thing for my lunches this week. I didn't want to do anything too complicated, so I just sauteed some aromatics (leeks, shallots, garlic), added some celeriac and other root vegetables (carrots, potatoes) and threw in a few sprigs of thyme for good measure.
When the soup was done, I tasted it and decided it needed something a bit richer to balance out all the veggie goodness. In went a touch of half-and-half and a smidge of browned butter. The result? Creamy, satisfying soup, the perfect antidote to an early spring chill.
Celeriac Soup with Browned Butter
2 tbs. olive oil
2 small leeks (white and light green parts only), cut into half-moons and washed
1 medium shallot, chopped
1 clove garlic, sliced crosswise
1 pound celeriac, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
2 small, waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
2 sprigs thyme
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/4 cup half and half
2 tbs. butter
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Set a medium pot (I used my 3 1/2 quart French oven.) over high heat. After a minute or so, add the olive oil and reduce the heat to medium-high. Once the oil is hot, add the leeks and saute for a moment, then add the shallot and garlic. Saute until the leeks are translucent and just beginning to brown. Add the celeriac and stir to combine well with the leek mixture, then add the carrots and potatoes, along with a healthy pinch of salt and some pepper.
Add the thyme sprigs to the pan and pour in the wine. Allow to cook at high heat, stirring, for a few minutes, until it doesn't smell too boozy. Pour the chicken stock over the vegetables and bring the soup to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and easily pierced with a fork.
While the soup is cooking, melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan set over medium heat. Continue to cook the butter until it begins to turn brown and smells nutty. Take off the heat immediately and set aside.
Once the vegetables are tender, remove the soup from the heat. Pull out the (now bare) thyme sprigs. Using an immersion blender, puree the soup until it is thick and smooth. (If you want to go crazy, you can also pour it through a strainer or chinois to make the soup super-smooth.) Stir in the half and half and browned butter.
If serving immediately, taste and adjust for seasoning. If not, allow the soup to cool to room temperature, cover, and transfer to the fridge. Reheat gently over medium heat, taste for seasoning, and serve.
Serves four.
The weekend is here, and I am psyched! I'm not so psyched about the weather, though; I went to the Union Square Greenmarket this morning when it was still below 30°F, and the tips of my ears are still recovering from the trauma. I did make out pretty well, though, with a haul that included the first chives of the season. And ramps are expected next week! In the meantime, here are some things to cuddle up with in the warmth of your living room...or bed...or coffee shop. Wherever, so long as it's warm.
First up, something to help with that whole warm thing. I saw this recipe for corn soup on Food52 last week, and have been dreaming of it ever since. Like Jenny, I rely on frozen corn (and peas) to keep me going through the winter months, and find no shame in it. The vast majority of the time, it's better than what's available fresh. Her recipe includes curry powder and mint, and sounds comforting and refreshing at the same time. Sign me up.
Next up, courtesy of Design*Sponge, a peek into the home of the founders of Paris' famed Hidden Kitchen eating club. It's a gorgeous place, all glamour and comfort and, well, Paris. I would move there in a New York minute.
Finally, another tidbit from Design*Sponge. (I know, I'm kinda boring this week.) Look at this pantry. Don't you want it? How could you not? It is, quite simply, amazing. To have everything you need so readily accessible, and so beautifully stored? I swoon and sigh at the mere thought.
I don't know about you guys, but I pretty much worship Ruth Reichl. She's funny, she's humble and she's too damn talented. Her memoirs (especially Tender At The Bone and Comfort Me With Apples) are on my read-this-at-least-once-every-two-years list, and I'm still deep in mourning over the loss of Gourmet, the magazine she helmed spectacularly for 10 years. (Until Condé Nast shuttered it in October 2009. Grrrr.)
Most recently, I've been re-reading Tender At The Bone, Reichl's first memoir. It spans about 20 years' time, from her childhood in Greenwich Village to her move to Berkeley in the early 1970s. Somewhere in there, she penned her first cookbook, entitled Mmmmmm, A Feastiary. I first heard the book mentioned by name when Reichl did a Q&A on eGullet a few years ago, and promptly searched eBay for a copy. I snagged one in pristine condition for just a few bucks, and it's occupied a precious spot on my shelf ever since.
On Sunday, when confronted with a refrigerator full of leftover rice, steamed chicken and broccoli, I decided a bowl of fried rice would be just the thing to eat for lunch. And I knew Ruth was just the person to tell me what to do. When a browse through the Gourmet cookbook didn't rustle up what I needed, I turned to Mmmmmm, and was not disappointed. Right there on page forty-three is a ridiculously simple recipe for fried rice.Reichl encourages an improvisational approach, telling the reader to use whatever bits and bobs populate the recesses of her crisper drawer. She also Americanizes the recipe somewhat, suggesting sherry in the place of Shaoxing cooking wine. No matter what you throw in or what wine you grab from the shelf, though, the result is a fast, piping hot, satisfying lunch.
Cleaning out the fridge is a pretty good side benefit, too.
(And, since matzo abounds this week, I think Mmmmmm's matzo brei may be next on the list.)
Ruth's Fried Rice
Adapated from Mmmmmm, A Feastiary by Ruth Reichl
1 cup cooked rice
2 tsp. vegetable oil
1 egg
1/4 cup white onion, diced
1 clove garlic, smashed
Any vegetables you want to add (broccoli, cabbage, carrots, peppers), thinly sliced
2 tsp. Shaoxing cooking wine (or sherry, or vermouth)
1/4 cup water or chicken stock
2 tsp. soy sauce mixed with 1/4 tsp. sugar
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Sriracha (optional)
Heat a skillet until very hot. Add the oil and a bit of salt; swirl the pan to coat the bottom. Break the egg into the pan and scramble lightly. Add the onion, garlic and vegetables to the pan, and stir to combine with the egg.
Add the meat and then the wine, and stir the contents of the skillet for another 30 seconds. Add the rice and stir to combine evenly. Cook for another 30 seconds to a minute, until the rice is hot and has lost all of its refrigerator stiffness.
Add the soy sauce mixture and grind some pepper over everything. Serve immediately, topped with a few squirts of Sriracha.
Serves one, generously.
Every cook needs a classic vinaigrette in his or her repertoire. Much like roasting a chicken or making an omelet, whipping up a vinaigrette is one of the basic foundational skills of good cooking. To do it, you need decent knife skills (if you include shallot or garlic, that is), a good sense of proportion and the ability to season properly.
It's the simplest of the classic sauces and is a great opportunity to make your own mark. Every cook I know has his or her own formula, typically representative of his or her entire oeuvre.
My vinaigrette is no exception. It includes several of my favorite ingredients (shallots, sherry vinegar, mustard, honey), and I'll eat it on almost anything. I use my vinaigrette on simple green salads, my summertime composed salad, my green bean and new potato salad, on top of grilled chicken or steak...you name it, I'll put this dressing on top of it.It took me a while to land on this recipe; for years, I used white wine vinegar and olive oil, but about four years ago I fell in love with sherry vinegar and never looked back. The honey tempers the tang of the vinegar without diluting its flavor, and also helps to emulsify the dressing without using too much oil. Mustard is a classic ingredient in vinaigrette; in addition to being yet another emulsifier (hence its appearance in most homemade mayonnaise recipes), it adds a winey, earthy flavor to the proceedings. And canola oil is light, neutral and far cheaper than grapeseed.
I hope you like this dressing - and I hope you'll share your own signature vinaigrettes in the comments below!
Queenie's Vinaigrette
1 large shallot, minced
2 tsp. good Dijon mustard (I use Maille.)
1 tsp. honey
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
1/3 cup canola oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Combine the shallot, mustard, honey, vinegar and a pinch each of salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Stir with a small whisk to combine.
Whisking constantly, pour the oil into the bowl in a thin stream. Continue whisking until the mixture is emulsified. If using immediately, taste and adjust for seasoning.
Otherwise, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator. The dressing will keep (and will actually get better for the sitting) for up to 10 days.
Makes enough vinaigrette to last one person at least a week.
I do not have a dishwasher.
This is not an unusual situation for a New Yorker; in fact, it's considered the norm for most rentals, especially those built before the most recent real estate boom. And since I live alone, it's not too much of a pain to do my dishes by hand.
What it does mean, though, is that I'm particularly tuned in to which dishes and utensils get more use than others, and I've noticed something interesting. While there are always a bounty of forks available in the cutlery drawer, I am frequently out of spoons, and my whisks and knives are constantly dirty.
I realized that, aside from actually eating (which, let's face it, we can do with our hands), almost every task I need to accomplish in the kitchen can be tackled using a combination of knife, whisk and spoon. Making a salad? Knife, whisk, spoon. Making a cake? Whisk, spoon. Making soup? Knife, spoon. An omelet? Knife, whisk, spoon. You get the idea.
It's not that I don't love my tongs or my fish spatula or my vegetable peeler. But if I had to choose three tools to take with me on the road, or to a desert island, the trio of knife, spoon and whisk would win, by a long shot.
How about you? What are your most essential kitchen tools?
A few weeks ago, Louisa and I paid a visit to Frankie's Spuntino on Clinton Street, where we had an absolutely fantastic meal. Ever since, I've become obsessed with recreating two of the dishes: cavatelli with hot sausage and browned butter, and the roasted beets with avocado and balsamic vinegar.
Others have come before me where the cavatelli is concerned (and I'll be offering my version shortly), but I wasn't able to find any versions of the beet and avocado salad anywhere online. The salad is deceptively simple and relies heavily on the inclusion of superlative ingredients - the best beets, avocado and balsamic vinegar that you can find.
That last one means you'll have to shell out a bit - you need a vinegar that's been aged long enough to become thick, sweet and complex. The young, sour versions just will not do. Not to worry, though - the cash will be more than worth it. You only need a tiny bit, and the flavor is incomparable.
The salad combines two slightly different textures - the tender, toothsome beets and the creamy avocado - and three delicate flavors to create a distinctly refreshing and exciting dish. I tried to stick to the three ingredients in my version, but ended up needing a little help to bring out the depth and excitement I remembered in the Frankie's version.
Luckily, I'll soon be able to see how close I was to the truth: Frankie's Spuntino is coming out with an eponymous cookbook in early June. Pre-order? Don't mind if I do.
Frankie's Roasted Beet & Avocado Salad
4 small beets
Olive oil
Juice of one lemon
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
2 ripe avocados, halved and sliced into 1/4 inch slices
Very good balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Clean and trim the beets. Spread a piece of foil on a cookie sheet, place beets on the foil, and drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper. Fold the foil to form a packet, and place the packet (on the cookie sheet) in the oven. Roast for 45 minutes to an hour, or until the beets are tender when poked with a fork. Remove pack from oven and set aside to cool.
Once the beets are cool to the touch, peel them and slice them into 1/3 inch wedges. Place the wedges in a medium bowl and toss with the lemon juice, a bit of salt and pepper and the cinnamon.
Leaving the lemon juice behind, divide the beet wedges between four plates or bowls and arrange them in a starburst pattern. Add the avocado, building on the starburst. Sprinkle each salad with a bit of salt and pepper, then drizzle generously with the balsamic vinegar. Serve immediately.
Serves four.
In case you've missed the fun over the last couple of days, I think it's my obligation to clue you into some of the silliest, most wonderful times being had over on Twitter.
If you follow Ruth Reichl, you know that her tweets are gorgeous pieces of poetry, evoking a life lived in freshly baked bread, briny oysters and flaky croissants. They make you smile, salivate and hungry for more. And we tweeps aren't the only ones who've noticed. Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert have started airing a segment called "The Tao of Ruth" as part of their radio show. They read Reichl's latest tweets reverently, like haikus, all the while playing Beat era percussion in the background.
It's hilarious.
But the most recent development in this saga is even better - an anonymous genius has created Ruth Bourdain, a mashup of Reichl's tweets with Bourdain's foul language and penchant for exotic foods and illicit substances. The result is pure brilliance.
Even better, Reichl appeared on Bourdain's and Ripert's show this week to laugh with them about their segment and ponder the identity of Ruth Bourdain's creator. One thing's for certain, though: that picture is scary.
Happy Saturday, folks! It's a stunning morning here in New York, and I'm getting ready to go get pretty at the salon this afternoon. I'm sure most East Coasters, at least, are out and about today (I'm hearing good things about the weather out west, too) - but, just in case you're not, here are some fun treasury items to psych you up!
First, what seem to be the ultimate answer to (the pure, unadulterated nastiness that is) the Cadbury Creme Egg. Vosges has created a series of Easter eggs, the most intriguing of which (to me, at least) are the Wink of the Rabbit (caramel, pecans and dark milk chocolate) and the Bacon and Eggs (bacon caramel and dark chocolate). These will definitely be making an appearance in my Easter basket. Swoon.
Next, a recipe for Dijon chicken from Kerry Saretsky's French in a Flash series over on Serious Eats. This looks like a delicious, easy one-pot meal, and I predict that I will make it for lunch sometime soon. Mustard and wine and thyme - what could be better?
Finally, some ridiculously delicious looking apple dumplings. These look absolutely insane. I must have them. Now. Immediately. Many thanks to Design*Sponge and their contributor, food photographer Stacy Newgent, for making my day.
Continuing our tradition of exploring the city's best lobster rolls, my brother Jeremy and I met up for a pre-theatre lunch at Luke's Lobster on Saturday afternoon. Luke's, in the East Village, has a distinctly different sensibility than our last lobster roll venue, Pearl's. While Pearl's is a sit-down restaurant with wine and desserts, Luke's is a strictly order-and-eat-at-the-stool-in-the-window kind of place. Both, though, have their roots in the classic New England seafood shack.
Where Pearl's roll is more of a salad roll (mayonnaise, onion, celery), Luke's is pure and simple. The generous heap of lobster meat is served in a butter-toasted hot dog roll (the classic choice) and topped with more butter (drawn, this time) and some dusty, diner-style black pepper. The lobster itself is fantastic - juicy, tender and full of that wonderful, clean flavor of the North Atlantic.
Even better, you can feel good about eating the seafood at Luke's. It's all sustainable, caught in Maine, and shipped in quickly. I'm not saying that being virtuous makes the food taste better, but it sure doesn't hurt.
Jeremy also ordered a cup of the clam chowder, which was stellar. It's hard to tell from this photo, but the soup was full of little chewy bits of fresh clam and tender potato. It was creamy, but not overwhelmingly thick, and had that nice sweetness I look for in a seafood chowder. I can't wait to go back and try the shrimp and corn chowder, and soon.
Overall, our verdict is that Luke's is a fabulous bargain ($14 for a lobster roll) and delicious. Our heart, however, remains at Pearl's. Both of us prefer a lobster roll that bites back, even just a little bit. And it's no secret that I love me some mayonnaise. That said, I highly recommend a trip to Luke's - a must for any seafood-loving New Yorker, for sure.
Anyone have a vote for where we should head for our next lobster roll?
Luke's Lobster
93 East 7th Street (Between 1st and A)
212.387-8487
After Louisa's most excellent reading at the Lady Jane Salon, she and I and our friend Arie decided to walk a block west and get some dinner at Lupa. Now, normally I don't get to eat Italian food with Louisa, since it's Nick's least favorite cuisine. But she was sans Nick on this trip, so I decided the time was right for an introduction to my beloved Roman pastas.
We started with the verdure misto, a platter of seasonal vegetables, each prepared in a unique way. The night we went, the platter featured assorted olives, broccoli rabe with ricotta, marinated squash, beets with pistachio sauce, treviso and brussels sprouts with pecorino. I enjoyed the sprouts, but thought they had a bit too much cheese going on - it was hard to find the spicy bite of the sprouts under all of that. The beets, though, were the star of the show. The pistachio sauce was insanely delicious, and the light nuttiness played beautifully with the sweetness of the beets.
Next, we each ordered a plate of pasta. I went for the bucatini all'amatriciana, a long, hollow pasta with tomatoes, red onion and guanciale (cured pork jowl, similar to bacon). I make this a lot at home, since it can be thrown together with ingredients I always keep on hand (I use fresh tomatoes in the summer, canned in the winter.) - and, I have to say, I like my version better. This one was good and bacony, but the red onion was a bit too sweet to act as a foil to the tomatoes, and there wasn't enough red pepper going on. The pasta was perfect, though.
Louisa's dish, on the other hand, was stellar. She ordered the bavette cacio e pepe, a classic Roman dish. Bavette is a thin, flat pasta - a bit like fettucine, but made without egg. The pasta is tossed with copious amounts of cheese (cacio) and pepper (pepe) until it's both creamy and mildly spicy. This version was perfect - silky, smooth, creamy, but with a bit of a bite.
We drank a bottle of Italian white and stumbled out into the chilly spring evening. Fortified by pasta and beets, though, it didn't seem so cold anymore.
Lupa
170 Thompson Street (Between Houston & Bleecker)
212.982.5089
Finally! I found a decent picture of the (unsliced) cake from Caroline's shower. This creation was a labor of love on the part of Ellie's mom, Mrs. Maletta. Isn't it gorgeous? And, I hasten to add, it was delicious. Three layers of plain yellow cake (Caroline's favorite) with one layer of dulce de lece and one of nutella in between.
I die.
The treasury is back, and I'm ready to rock! In penance for my absence last weekend, I've got a couple of extra tidbits for you here. Let's get to it!
First up, a house I would move into this very instant, though I can't imagine its inhabitants would ever willingly leave. Design*Sponge posted this amazing tour of Fitzhugh and Lindsay's Brooklyn brownstone earlier this week, and I've been wiping the drool off my chin ever since.
Next, one of my new blog obsessions, Mrs. Lilien. If you love colorful, preppy-modern fashion, this is the blog for you. It's like a daily shot of happiness, the blog equivalent of eating a tiny little clementine each morning. While I chafe slightly at the "Mrs." moniker being used to apply to all the (imaginary) stylish women conjured by the author (Kelley Lilien, an incredible designer and stylist), I can't help but love the jewelry. And the shoes. And the sunglasses.
I know I just threw a party, but I'm already hankering for another one, and this post from Such Pretty Things isn't helping matters one bit. This is pretty much the most adorable slumber party ever, complete with natural soda, candy, a great cake and popcorn for the movie. Want, want, want.
Before I go, here's one last adorable apartment. Imagine having your mom, professional interior designer, fix up your first apartment. Just imagine! I'd love to have that now, for goodness' sake. Regardless, we can all crib ideas from Lauren McGrath's adorable home. I love that lucite bench with the vanity, and the yellow lamp makes me plotz.
Growing up, Caroline and I spent pretty much every afternoon together. We rode our bikes all over our little town, clambering down hidden paths and through marshland to get to the tiny coves and tidal pools ringing the shoreline. We took my dog, Buster (cutest dog ever) for long walks and introduced him to shellfish and seaweed at the beach. We ate whole packages of Chips Ahoy at her house, and baked endless batches of Tollhouse cookies at mine. We made gingerbread houses every Christmas, and Caroline was one of the few people who kept in touch with me when I went off to boarding school in 9th grade.
So when our friend Ellie suggested that the two of us throw Caroline a shower (and volunteered her parents' lovely home as a venue), how could I disagree? We started off by talking about some of Caroline's favorite things: birds (she's had at least one bird as a pet at all times since we were little), the color blue and candy. Lots and lots of candy.
My incredibly talented friend Miya created some gorgeous invitations for us, and we were off and running. Next came menu planning (ladies who lunch with a Southern twist, plus a ton of candy), decorations (Can you say tissue paper arts and crafts?) and games.
I headed out to Connecticut on Friday morning to spend the day cooking and crafting with Ellie and her incredibly gracious mom (known to one and all as Mrs. Maletta). We chopped and baked and boiled and mixed for hours; the menu we'd chosen was simple, but preparing food for 25 when you're used to cooking for - at most - six is a completely different proposition.
By Friday evening we settled in to make decorations for the dining area. Inspired by the profusion of pom-poms and poofs I'd seen on event planning and wedding blogs, I'd decided to make a bunch of them in different sizes and hang them over our tables. We also hung a wall of streamers near the front door, the better to make a little spot for photo ops.
And, of course, we had candy. Jelly beans, Reese's Pieces Easter eggs (Twice the peanut buttery goodness!) and M&Ms. A little chocolate, a little gummy, a little peanut butter: most of the major candy food groups covered.
We started with two hors d'ouevres: my trusty homemade gravlax, and my Aunt Cathi's ridiculously delicious endive leaves with goat cheese, walnuts, oranges, chives and a bit of balsamic. They are even easier than the gravlax, and will definitely be a recurring feature in my repetoire. In fact, they were so popular with the assembled ladies that I only managed to snap a photo of the last one on offer.
Next, we moved into the dining room and onto lunch. We feasted on a green salad with cucumbers and artichoke hearts, green beans with butter and herbs, curried chicken salad, beet salad with oranges and Thomas Keller's buttermilk biscuits. I chose the menu items based on a couple of criteria: things Caroline loves, things that are easy to serve in a buffet and things that will be hearty enough for a vegetarian or someone who gave up meat for Lent.
A little present opening (during which the bride-to-be was presented by yours truly with Peeps) and a Schramsberg toast later, and things were winding down. We sent everyone home with orange sugar cookies shaped like birds and sent the bride and groom home with a trunkful of goodies. And Mrs. Maletta? She liked the pom-poms so much that we left those with her.
Endive with Walnuts, Goat Cheese and Oranges
Adapted from Cooking Light
2 heads Belgian endive
1/4 cup goat cheese
1 blood or Cara Cara orange, peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch segments
1/3 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
2 tbs. chives, finely chopped
A few tablespoons very good balsamic vinegar (It needs to be thick and sweet!)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Separate the leaves from the endive head and place them on a platter. Crumble a bit of goat cheese into each leaf, then add one orange piece to each. Add the walnuts, diving them evenly amongst the leaves. Top with the chives.
Sprinkle each endive with a few drops of the vinegar, and top with a bit of salt and pepper.
Serve, and watch your guests swoon.
Serves 6 as an hors d'ouevre.
Curried Chicken Salad
Adapted from The Barefoot Contessa
3 whole (6 split) chicken breasts, bone-in, skin-on
Olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups good mayonnaise
1/3 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup Major Grey's chutney
3 tablespoons curry powder
2 large stalks celery, cut into a quarter-inch dice
2 thinly sliced scallions, white and green parts
1/4 cup raisins
1 cup whole roasted, salted cashews
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Place the chicken breasts on a sheet pan and rub the skin with olive oil. Sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes, until the chicken is just cooked. Set aside until cool enough to handle. Remove the meat from the bones, discard the skin, and dice the chicken into large bite-size pieces.
In the meantime, make the dressing. Combine the mayonnaise, wine, chutney, curry powder, and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Process until smooth. (You can also do this with an immersion blender - or a normal blender as well!)
Combine the chicken with enough dressing to moisten well. Add the celery, scallions, and raisins, and mix well. Refrigerate for a few hours (or overnight) to allow the flavors to blend. Add the cashews and serve at room temperature.
Serves 6-8.
Hello, dear readers! I know, I know - it's been a few days since last we met. Things have been crazy on my end, thanks in large part to the owner of the adorable dog staring so plaintively at you above (He just wants some of your food - is it so hard to share?). I have a crazy weekend approaching, as well - I (along with two partners in crime) am throwing a bridal shower for an old friend on Saturday, so I may well be MIA till Sunday.
I'll try to post a bit before then, though. I really, really will!
Happy snowy Saturday, folks! New York is digging out from another big storm this morning, and I'm about to venture out (clad in wellies, natch) to run a zillion and a half errands. Before that, though, it's time for a look at this week's Treasury!
First, a very exciting development in Manhattan's Mexican food scene. Hecho en Dumbo is moving to a new space on the Bowery, just a few short steps from the Bleecker Street stop on the 6 train. Score! I can't wait to try the Berkshire pork tacos with pickled red onion. Don't they look amazing? They open next Friday!
Next, some sad/happy news. The sad part is that, thanks to an incident with a slippery Le Creuset pot full of chicken stew, I am in desperate need of new woven cotton rug for the floor of my kitchen. The happy part is that I get to pick something from Dash & Albert. Their colorful stripes make me happy every time I see them. I'm still not sure which one I'll ultimately choose...any ideas?
Finally, an exciting event is taking place tomorrow! Those crazy kids over at NYC Food Crawls are hosting a pork bun crawl in Manhattan's Chinatown. Sadly, I am otherwise engaged, but I'm keen to recreate the experience on my own one day soon. If you want to meet up with fellow pork bun lovers, head to the intersection of Mulberry and Bayard tomorrow afternoon at 3 PM - and don't forget to report back!
Photo of barbecued pork buns via The Cookbook Chronicles.

If you guys want to hear all about my favorite places to shop, eat and drink, head over to Cherrypatter NYC and check out the guest post I wrote! As you all know, I love Cherrypatter, and when Laura (the blog's fabulous editrix) asked me to contribute a post of my own, I was incredibly flattered.
So clickety-click on over to see the post (And the squintiest picture of me in existence! And, yes, my bangs are in an awkward stage. What of it?). And thanks again to Laura for the opportunity to share my faves!
So far, I've been...just ok about keeping up my walk-across-the-park-once-a-week resolution. I've done it a couple of times, but not even close to once a week. This weekend was one of those times, though, so let's take a look!
The walk was a bit labored - I entered the park at 90th Street and 5th Avenue, and had the idea of walking around the reservoir. However. Once I got up to the path (after passing the creepy, funereal urns decorating a memorial to John Mitchel), I discovered a river of slush, ice and mud. The path around the reservoir, you see, is made of dirt and gravel, the better to run on. Snow melts slowly on that surface, and tends to melt and refreeze - apparently for weeks on end.
So things were a bit slow-going, at least until I reached the reservoir's southern tip and broke off to follow a paved path around the Great Lawn.All in all, though, a gorgeous walk on a gorgeous day. Not a cloud in the sky.
On Sunday, I treated myself to an I Love NYC kind of afternoon: early lunch at Café Sabarsky, a visit to the Cooper-Hewitt, a walk across Central Park, and a cappuccino at Joe. Let's begin at the beginning, shall we?
Café Sabarsky is part of Kurt Gutenbrunner's ever-growing empire of Austrian food. His other outposts include Blaue Gans and Wallsé. While Blaue Gans is a rustic, tavern sort of place, and Wallsé is all refined cool, Café Sabarsky is Gutenbrunner's tribute to fin de siècle Viennese café culture. Located in the Neue Galerie, the café's menu features an impressive assortment of Viennese pastry, delicious coffee and a bowl of spaetzle with tarragon.
For me, Café Sabarsky is typically all about two things: the Einspanner (double espresso with whipped cream) and the decor (reproductions of classic Austrian designs in a Gilded Age mansion's paneled parlor). This time, though, I branched out.First up, a double espresso; more specifically, a Grosser Brauner, which is served with a teeny bit of milk on the side. As usual, it was delicious. I seriously wish I could stop here every morning for coffee. Rarely have I found more perfect coffee on this side of the Atlantic.
Once I'd caffeinated, I switched to water and ordered the wiener schnitzel. It arrived a few minutes later, piping hot, topped with lemon and accompanied by potato salad and lingonberries. I have to say, I was a bit underwhelmed by the schnitzel itself. The veal was tender and flavorful, but the breading was completely separated from the meat in most spots. The potato salad was tasty and creamy, and the lingonberries were tart and offered a lovely contrast, but all in all, I think I'll stick to the spaetzle from now on.
For dessert, I skipped the pastry (I do recommend the apfelstreudel, though.) and went for a Viennese hot chocolate. While it was a bit thinner than the Pierre Hermé version I make at home, it was deeply chocolatey and came topped with a generous amount of freshly whipped cream - both qualities I can get behind with little trouble.
After finishing Moby-Dick for last month's book club meeting, I've been engaged in a binge-like round of comfort reading. I re-read Ruth Reichl's superlative second memoir (Comfort Me With Apples) and am deep into a session with Northanger Abbey (which I've read too many times to count). In between, I picked up Lunch In Paris, a memoir by Elizabeth Bard.
The book is, in fact, billed as a "love story with recipes," so I was excited to read it and get inspired. I was a bit disappointed, as the food mentioned - and often described with loving tenderness - rarely matched the recipes presented at the close of each chapter. (The thematic connections were there, to be fair.) That said, some of the recipes that were included seemed interesting, most notably Chapter Three's poulet basquaise.
Basque cooking is perhaps best known for its inclusion of piment d'espelette, a dried pepper that is the region's answer to paprika. It's delicious, sweet and smoky and spicy and complex. I love it, but had never cooked with it before. One order from Kalustyan's later, I was ready to get moving.
Poulet basquaise combines the d'espelette pepper with fresh sweet peppers and copious amounts of onion. Not everyone's cup of tea, surely, but I've rarely heard two words I love more than "onions" and "peppers." The recipe also called for a decent amount of bacon, some canned tomatoes, and had a fabulous sauce to meat ratio (read: high).
However. For an entire chicken, 28 ounces of tomatoes, 8 ounces of bacon, three peppers and four onions, Bard calls for only 2 teaspoons of espelette. Sorry, honey - not gonna cut it for this pepper lover. In fact, the recipe in general seems written for someone who's already a pretty comfortable cook; for example, she asks you to brown the chicken in a skillet, but doesn't offer a suggestion for which fat to use. So, I've taken it upon myself to put her fantastic formula into a format that will hopefully work for you - it's a bit time-consuming, as one-dish meals go, but it's truly delicious, and it fed me for five days.
You can't beat that.
Poulet Basquaise
Adapted from Elizabeth Bard's Lunch in Paris
One whole chicken, cut into six pieces (or six assorted legs & thighs)
3 tbs. piment d'espelette*, divided
Kosher salt
2 tbs. neutral oil, such as canola
3 slices bacon, cut crosswise into batons
2 white onions, thinly sliced into rounds
3 cloves garlic, halved lengthwise
3 red bell peppers, ends removed, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds
3 tbs. sherry vinegar
28 ounces plum tomatoes, with juice
1 bay leaf
4-5 sprigs thyme, leaves removed and stems discarded
3 tbs. parsley, finely chopped
Pat the chicken dry and place, skin-side up, on a plate. Season the chicken, on the skin-side, with a teaspoon or so of the d'espelette and a pinch of salt. In a large saute pan or dutch oven, heat the canola oil over medium-high heat. Place the chicken in the oil, skin-side down, and cook until golden brown. Meanwhile, season the bottom side of the chicken with another teaspoon of d'espelette and a pinch of salt.
Turn the chicken and brown on the other side, then remove the chicken pieces to a plate to rest. (Brown chicken in batches if need be; do not crowd the pan.)
Add the bacon to the pan and cook over medium heat for several minutes, until most of the fat is rendered, but the bacon isn't quite crispy. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and set aside. Pour off all but a couple of tablespoons of the fat in the pan and place the pan over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook slowly until the onions are well-softened, about 10 minutes. Add the peppers, a tablespoon of d'espelette and half a teaspoon of salt. Continue to cook over medium heat until the peppers are very soft, about 15 minutes.
Deglaze the pan with the vinegar, and then add the tomatoes one by one, crushing them between your fingers as you go - and don't forget their juice! Return the bacon to the pan and add the remaining d'espelette, bay leaf, thyme and parsley. Bring the mixture to a simmer, place the chicken on top, and cover. Keep the pan cooking at a simmer for 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the bay leaf, adjust for seasoning, and serve.
I like to serve this with couscous, which does a great job of soaking up the sauce. Since I ate most of the stew well after it had been made, I added a few pinches of fresh herbs to the couscous to brighten things up.
Serves 4-6 people. The sauce is more filling than you'd expect.
*If you can't find piment d'espelette, hot (not sweet) paprika makes a good substitute.
Happy Saturday, my lovelies! It's a bright, crisp day here in New York, and I'm enjoying a weekend of theatre (I saw Present Laughter last night and am headed to Equivocation this afternoon!), cooking and design binging (Trip to Cooper-Hewitt? Check!). Before all that, though, it's time to take a look into the treasury.
First up this week, we have the (relatively new) foodblog Fresh New England. The three posts on El's front page all involve chocolate. And one involves whipped cream - and palmiers. Need I say more?
Next, some exciting news about Target's latest limited edition collaboration with a high-end design house: Liberty of London is coming to Tar-jay! My biggest memories of Liberty are of the dresses my mom would bring back for me from her annual piligrimage to London. When I was little, I thought they were each just another dress for church, but now I know better - those gorgeous, sprigged prints were works of art. Personally, I'm drooling over the teapot and the bike. And the dishes. And the pillows. And...anyhoo. The collection is due out on March 14th. In the meantime, I've settled for a hot-pink desktop background.
Finally, a super-cool flower arranging class: Bodega Flowers 101 from Sarah at Blossom & Branch. I am seriously considering signing up for one of the public classes, though this would also make an excellent wedding shower activity, no? (Via 100 Layer Cake.)
That's right, folks! I used the maionese de leite as a sauce for some simple, pan-roasted lamb chops, and the result was absolutely delicious. I sprinkled a bit of salt and some lemon juice over the whole mess, and added some parsley for good measure, too.
More uses for this deliciousness coming soon!
Last Sunday, in between coffee at Joe and a wonderful trip to the theatre with my friend Miya and her mom, Judy, I stopped into Kefi for a bite to eat.
Kefi is one of those rare success stories - a tiny neighborhood restaurant that flourishes to the extreme. In Kefi's case, that's meant a move to a larger space and attention from the Times, New York Magazine and the major food blogs (no, I don't mean Queenie). And with good reason. Kefi's food is simple and delicious - it's rustic Greek done very, very well and presented with friendly service for a reasonable price.
I'd eaten at Kefi for dinner a couple of times - the lamb chops are stupendous - but Sunday was my first time there for lunch. I decided to try a couple of the mezze, since I was feeling peckish and in need of variety. As it turns out, the two mezze were way too much food for one person, but not quite enough for two - if you're paired up, I'd recommend trying three!
My first choice was the homemade cypriot sausage, which came with a tangle of radishes, cucumbers and scallions tossed with lemon juice, herbs and olive oil. The sausages came nestled in a little pool of creamy Greek yogurt with a little stack of fresh pita triangles alongside.The crispy calamari, my next choice, came complete with crispy lemon slices (battered bits of sunshine) and Greek yogurt for dipping. The calamari itself was simply cooked - lightly battered and then fried to golden - but the yogurt was seasoned with parsley, garlic and bits of fried shallot. The two combined were utter happiness on a plate. Seriously - I could eat this every day and not be bored. It was like having little fireworks go off in my mouth - like Pop Rocks of the sea.
In short, if you're in the market for a tasty Greek meal north of 59th Street, Kefi is the place to be. And you should get the calamari, lamb chops - oooh, and the sweetbreads, if they're still on the dinner menu. The sweetbreads, too.
Kefi
505 Columbus Avenue
Between 84th and 85th Streets
212.873.0200
Last week, Amanda Hesser posted what looked like an incredible recipe to the blog at Food52. For those of you who haven't discovered it for yourselves quite yet, Food52 is an online community of home cooks dedicated to creating a fantastic repository of recipes as well as a series of thoughtfully and collaboratively curated cookbooks. I am personally addicted to it, and follow the site (as well as its founders, Amanda and Merrill) on Twitter - you should, too.
Anyhoo, back to the point. Amanda posted a recipe for a milk-based mayonnaise last week, and I was immediately intrigued. For starters, how would the emulsion work? And how would it taste? The answers, as it turns out, are: very well, and just as Amanda described - pillowy goodness.
Since the protein here comes from whole milk, as opposed to the sticky substance that is egg yolk, the mayonnaise produced is lighter than the usual - pillowy is absolutely the right description; cloudlike would also work. The touch of garlic adds a piquancy to the mix and lends depth to the overall flavor.Mine ended up looking a bit like vanilla ice cream, but don't be deceived - those black flecks are not vanilla bean, but freshly ground black pepper, since I didn't have any white pepper on hand. Either way, the mayonnaise was delicious folded into my go-to chicken salad, and I'm pretty excited to try it out as a sauce for pan-roasted lamb chops tomorrow night. Yum.
Last Tuesday night, Nick, Louisa, Jeremy, Miriam and I went for dessert at Momofuku Milk Bar. We ordered an insane assortment of desserts, including the chocolate chip cake (Miriam's favorite), crack pie (like shoofly, but better), cookies, cookies, cookies, and cinnamon bun pie (my personal favorite).
I, of course, had to buy a cookie or two for the next day. I sprang for a blueberry cream, which I shared for breakfast with my friend Mary, and a chocolate chip-cornflake-marshmallow, which I saved for my mid-afternoon snack.It was, predicatbly, delicious. One of the secrets of a fantastic cookie is, of course, not slacking on the butter. If you're going to do it, go whole hog. Given the transparency of their paper bag the next morning, I can confirm that these cookies are buttery to the max. Another secret is finding the perfect balance of salty and sweet, another place Momofuku (mostly) excels. While a couple of their items are a bit too simply sweet for me, most, like this cookie, are a perfect blend of salt, sugar, crunch and chew.
And butter. Lots and lots of butter.
(Don't forget - if you live in parts distant, you can make your own chocolate chip-cornflake-marshmallow cookies, thanks to Ms. Lorna Yee!)
Momofuku Milk Bar
207 Second Avenue
Corner of 13th Street
212.254.3400
OK, kids. Here is a lesson in preparation.
Remember way back when in April when I reminded you of the virtues of ramp compound butter? My personal stash (a ten-inch log stored in the freezer) has been very good to me over the last eight months or so. I've used it in pastas, tossed bits of it on top of lamb chops & steak, and spread it on toast to give sandwiches some extra oomph.
This past weekend, I used a bit of it to make the most delicious green peas I've had in ages. I was having lamb chops for lunch and wanted to have peas alongside (I always keep a bag of Birds Eye in the freezer). I contemplated mashing them, but then remembered how delicious ramp butter was with lamb, and decided it would also be great with lamb-accompanied peas.
And I was right! The ramp butter lent the peas a slightly funky flavor, and the different greens of the ramps, parsley and peas looked so beautiful together. A pinch of salt helped everything sing.
Without further ado, then, I present what is pretty much the easiest recipe of all time - or, at least, the easiest recipe ever to appear on this blog. Enjoy!
Peas with Ramp Butter
1 cup of good quality frozen peas
2 tbs. ramp compound butter, cut into a few bits
Pinch of kosher salt
1 tbs. finely chopped flat leaf parsley
Place the peas in a small saucepan and fill with just enough water to cover. Set the pan over low heat for a few minutes, keeping an eye on it to make sure it doesn't quite simmer. Cook the peas until they are very warm (since they've already been cooked, you're really just reheating them).
Drain the peas in a strainer or colander and return to the saucepan (but turn off the heat). Add the compound butter, salt and parsley and toss to combine. Once the butter is pretty much melted, taste the peas, adjust for seasoning and serve.
Serves two as a side.
Happy long-weekend Saturday, people! It's been a fairly busy day chez Queenie; I've whipped up some homemade mayonnaise (a new recipe - more on that later), given myself a manicure, and met up with a fellow blogger for a little sweet treat. All of this is my way of excusing the tardiness of this treasury post - I hope the goodness of the content makes up for the lateness of the hour!
First up this week, a fantastic resource for your next trip to France. I stumbled on this guide to Parisian restaurants, etiquette and norms last week, and I think it's a godsend for Americans headed for the city, be it your first trip or your twentieth. Seriously good stuff - especially the post about restaurant etiquette. Thanks for sharing your wisdom, Jake & Mo! (And thanks for an excuse to post a photo of Camille's superlative creme brulee!)
Next, something a little closer to home. For a couple of weeks now I've been following this cool blog called Scouting New York. Written by a film industry location scout, it's already opened my eyes to sights I've missed right here in my own fair city, and taught me more about those I thought I knew well. It's a ton of fun, and I highly recommend you add it to your daily reading roster.
Finally, another awesome recipe from Design*Sponge's In The Kitchen series. This week's recipe was for Boston cream pies, and man oh man do they look delicious. Yellow cake, pastry cream and chocolate glaze? Sign me up, because Beantown here I come.
As soon as I spied a recipe for a tortilla with potatoes, parsnips and watercress on Cannelle et Vanille last week, I knew I had to make it. I halved the recipe to make a single-serving version for lunch, and it was delicious - but the egg-to-filling ration was too low for my liking. I decided to tweak things a bit and make my own version, heavy on the egg, lighter on the potato and parsnip, and generous with the watercress.
The genius move of the recipe - poaching the parsnip and potato in olive oil - remains, because it is just damn tasty. Seriously, intensely, ridiculously tasty.
(A quick aside: watercress is one of my favorite greens, and is especially good sauteed in olive oil with a bit of garlic. Top it off with a sprinkling of soy sauce and a pinch of red pepper, and you have a side dish worthy of a king.)
I also changed the equipment called for by the original recipe; due partly to storage space concern and partly to my belief that there's no reason to own two of everything, I don't own non-stick pans, so the flipping action called for in the Cannelle recipe was a bit tough. use the broiler, though, and there's no need to flip the thing when the egg is still quite runny - and you won't dirty a plate, either!
This recipe makes a generous lunch for one, or part of a lunch for two, but it should multiply easily - just use a bigger skillet.
Tortilla with Parsnip, Potato and Watercress
Adapted from Cannelle et Vanille
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus an additional teaspoon or so
1/4 medium onion, chopped
1/2 medium russet potato, cut into a 1/2 inch dice
1 small parsnip, cut into a 1/2 inch dice
1/4 tsp. salt
3 eggs
1/2 cup of watercress, roughly chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
In an oven-proof 8 inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and sweat them for about 2 minutes - you want them cooked, but not browned. Add the diced potatoes, parsnip and the salt. Cook the vegetables at medium for about 2 minutes, then lower the heat to medium low and cook for another 15 minutes. Meanwhile, pre-heat the broiler.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs. Add the watercress. Using a slotted spoon, remove the poatoes, parsnips and onions from the olive oil and add to the egg mixture (It's ok if the eggs cook a bit from the heat of the vegetables.). Wipe out the skillet with a paper towel and return to the heat. Add the teaspoon of oil and swirl to coat the pan, including the sides.
Add the eggs to the pan, turn the heat back to medium and stir the center so the egg starts to cook. When the center starts to scramble, let it be and don't stir anymore. Tuck in the edges nicely with the spatula and cook for about 2-3 minutes. When the edges begin to set, transfer the skillet to the broiler and cook until the tortilla is done to your liking. (I like it crispy on the edges and a bit runny in the middle, which takes about 3 minutes.)
Use a spatula to gently loosen the tortilla from the skillet and transfer to a plate. Slice in wedges if you plan to serve to more than one eater. Season with a bit of black pepper and salt, and serve.
Serves one generously, or two as part of a meal.
My love for cauliflower is well-established, as is my love for wine. But what happens when you combine the two? Delicious, delicious things. Last week I saved a quarter of a head of cauliflower from the roasting pan and reserved it for a pasta dinner. I'd seen a couple mentions of that a red wine barley risotto with cauliflower, and since I didn't have any barley (or arborio rice) sitting around, I decided to improvise with a pasta instead.
I chopped some onion and minced some garlic and decided to keep the florets intact. Cavatappi was the only pasta I had on hand, so it won out automatically. I had about a glass of red wine left in the bottom of a bottle. And since I can always go for something spicy, I added a sprinkling of red pepper flakes to the mix.
The result was a fairly nutritious, hearty, satisfying lunch. As much as I love the sweet, crunchy experience of roasted cauliflower, a quick saute in wine and garlic does a great job of bringing out its sharper, more vegetal side. Good stuff.Pasta with Red Wine and Cauliflower
1/4 pound short pasta, such as penne rigate or cavatappi
Olive oil
1/4 white onion, thinly sliced
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/4 head of cauliflower, chopped into 1-inch florets
1/2 cup dry red wine
Generous pinch of red pepper flakes
Finely grated parmesan cheese
Salt
In boiling, salted water, cook the pasta to al dente. Drain and set aside; do not rinse. (You can also cook the pasta while you make the sauce.)
Set a large skillet (I used my 12-incher) over high heat. Add enough olive oil to lightly coat the bottom of the pan, turn the heat to medium-high, and add the onions. Saute the onions for a few minutes until soft and fragrant, but not browned. Add the garlic and saute for a few minutes more, until you can smell the garlic and it has turned golden.
Add the cauliflower to the pan and saute for 4-6 minutes, until it has acquired a bit of color and begun to release its water. Sprinkle the mixture with a pinch of salt and deglaze the pan with the red wine. Add the pepper flakes and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the red wine is reduced to a syrupy glaze. Add the pasta to the skillet and cook for a minute or two, mixing it with the sauce and letting everything get to know each other.
Transfer the pasta and sauce to a shallow bowl, top with the cheese, taste for seasoning, and eat!
Serves one.
Happy Saturday, my lovelies! Despite forecasts to the contrary, I woke up this morning to a disappointingly snow-free landscape. To soothe my sadness, I've made a giant pot of coffee, put a little Felicity on the DVD player (Whatever; I know you have guilty pleasures, too!) and am ready to share some tidbits with you.
Speaking of coffee, my first pick this week is a super-cool Etsy shop (Brookish) selling mugs decorated with literary sayings. Sounds corny, I know, but the sayings are written in a gorgeous-but-still-only-dashed-off way, and Jane Austen abounds. And you know (or maybe you didn't but now you do) how I feel about Jane Austen: she is balm for my soul, as coffee is balm for my...well, soul. So the two belong together, truly.
I'm coming across as a bit of an Anglophile (or at least UK-phile) today, but I don't care. Next up is the work of illustrator Lehel Kovaco, featured on the lovely blog Ink & Wit. I'm particularly taken with the depiction of Edinburgh. And I love how the illustrations look like they've been sketched in a splayed-out Moleskine travel notebook - nothing beats traveling with Moleskine.
Finally, some seriously adorable (and slightly nerdy) jewelry. I love these mid-century chair charm necklaces, which I discovered through the blog Design Milk. I think I need one, right now. If I had to choose, I'd go for the bent plywood Eames. I think. Which one would you pick?
A few Fridays ago, , I had dinner with two of my oldest friends. Lisa, Keith and I met in college doing what is probably the nerdiest thing I do: musical theatre. Oh yes, my friends. Singing, dancing, jazz hands.
Lisa lives in Englewood, just over the George Washington Bridge, so I see her fairly often. But Keith's been living in Philadelphia for a few years and is spending just a few weeks here in New York. Therefore, dinner was in order. We decided to meet up in the West Village at the new-ish Joseph Leonard, described by its owner as a "bar with food" and named for his two grandfathers.
The bar, a right angle set in the middle of the small room, is indeed the heart of the enterprise, where the two mixologists are a constant whirl or shaking and stirring. All that activity turns out some delicious drinks, including one of the best Manhattans I've ever had. Lisa's Saint-Germain and gin concoction was pretty good, too, though I'd have served it up instead of on the rocks. We had a good amount of time to savor our drinks; Joseph Leonard doesn't take reservations, so we spent our 20 minutes of waiting time sipping peacefully in a corner of the dining room.
We sat down at a table set with red checkered napkins, sturdy silverware and a mason jar full of cornichons. Keith, a lover of pickles, was very pleased at this last development. The menu skews toward haute barnyard, with lots of farmer's market veggies (carrots, brussels sprouts and turnips all made the list) on display. We ended up ordering a wide variety of dishes; I went for the friseé aux lardons salad, a steak tartare special and a side of brussels sprouts.
The frisée salad arrived topped with fresh tarragon - something I'd never seen before - and accompanied by a soft-fried egg perched atop a lightly toasted crouton. The egg was creamy and slipped softly down my throat. The salad itself was lovely, dressed in a red wine vinaigrette and taking a pleasantly herbal note from the tarragon. While it wasn't the best frisée aux lardons I've ever had, it was darn satisfying.
Lisa ordered the glazed carrots, which came out of the oven looking like something from a Thomas Keller cookbook - with good reason, it seems. The chef (James McDuffy) used to work for Keller at Bouchon Bakery. Perfectly turned and tossed with butter and chives, the carrots (and turnips) were sweet, tender and delicious.
My steak tartare - a special that really should go on the permanent menu - didn't photograph well, but it was absolutely delicious. The meat was finely chopped, mixed with a healthy amount of shallots, capers and mustard and topped with a poached egg. Though the disc of tartare was surrounded by more than enough toasts to go around, I ended up eating each of my bites with the prototypically American onion rings (thick and beer-battered specimens) that sat alongside.
Best of all, though, were the brussels sprouts. The leaves were separated from the cores, roasted till they were black around the edges, and tossed with copious amounts of butter. Topped off with a squeeze of Sriracha and a healthy pinch of salt, they were like green leaves of crack. None of the three of us could get enough.
(It's also worth noting that the service at Joseph Leonard was fantastic - attentive and friendly, enthusiastic (I love when I can tell that the staff adore the food at a restaurant.), and just plain sweet. The staff did a fair job of corralling an increasingly obnoxious crowd, and were happy to help me extract our coats from underneath an outerwear mountain.)
Finally, dessert. Keith and Lisa were partial to the chocolate pot de creme with cherries, I fell for the caramel pudding topped with whipped cream and cookie crumbs. Yes, cookie crumbs. Oh. My. Gah. This was just too delicious. The pudding was creamy and rich and had a mellow kind of sweetness that I found really satisfying. The cookie crumbs took the whole thing over the top into full-on retro nostalgia land, a place I'm enjoying these days.
Joseph Leonard
170 Waverly Place (At Christopher Street)
646.429.8383
I've blogged about my favorite cauliflower recipe before (roasted cauliflower with lemon and honey), but given that cauliflower is still one of the (very few) vegetables in season here in the northeast, I thought it bore repeating.
I also thought that - since I'm boring you by showing you photos of the same salad - I'd share a few of my other favorite cauliflower recipes with you. Check out the list below for inspiration, and find all kinds of new ways to enjoy winter's albino goodness.
? Cauliflower pickles (Gourmet Magazine)
? Cauliflower gratin (Bouchon Cookbook)
? Cauliflower barley risotto (Gourmet Magazine)
? Cauliflower with almonds, raisins and capers (Smitten Kitchen)
? Roasted curried cauliflower (Epicurious)
Eat up, and enjoy!
There are very few things I love more than browned butter. Cucumbers are up there, as are tomatoes, lamb and Vietnamese food. But browned butter is the top ten, for sure.
It's no surprise, then, that I fell in love with Lorna's browned butter pound cake the second I added the cooled butter to the two sugars. The smell of butter and sugar being creamed into one fluffy mass is always delightful; when it's browned butter that's involved, the aroma is downright intoxicating.
This cake is as easy as can be to make; its prep time is even folded into the recipe, since you can gather and measure your ingredients while the browned butter cools in the freezer. It bakes up beautifully, the crumb a deep golden color specked with brown, and the crust a crunchy, dark brown shell. It's so dense and fine that you don't even need a serrated knife to cut it, and the smell of the whole thing will linger in the house for at least 24 hours.
This is a dense cake, one that takes well to ice cream or crème fraiche. Last night, Miriam and I ate our slices topped with her homemade ginger whiskey ice cream, a most perfect combination. Lorna herself recommends crème fraiche and toasted pistachios. It's also fabulous eaten standing up while slurping your morning coffee. It may not be dignified, but that hardly matters, does it?
I am not the only one, it seems, with Paris on the brain.
Yesterday, Decor8, one of my favorite shelter blogs, posted a reader question that went like this: "Hi Holly, I am going to Paris in March with my husbands band, Montage Populaire, do you or any of your readers know of places to go/shop/eat/visit which wouldn’t be in the tourist guides?"
Obviously, I immediately chimed in with a vote for Camille (Naturellement!), and was thrilled to see the other fantastic suggestions from Holly's creative, inspiring readers. I can't wait to try them out for myself - and since I'm already getting nibbles on my home exchange ad (more on this soon), it seems I won't have to wait too long!
I'm a sucker for a change in season. I love the first crisp evenings of autumn, the puffy breezes of early spring, and even the first day or two of summer's sweltering heat. And I truly love the frigid cold of winter. I love bundling up in my coat and scarf, pulling on my gloves, and heading out into a world whose edges seem somehow more sharply defined than in warmer weather.
But when winter's doldrums descend, I start to miss summer's bounty in earnest. I crave tomatoes and corn and berries; I yearn for bunches of peonies and dahlias, and I dream of ice cream and cold coffee. And while I've found frozen corn to be a decent, craving-sating substitute for its fresh counterpart, I've never been a huge fan of canned tomatoes. They've always seemed a bit cloying to me, somehow lacking in the earthy, muddy flavor that makes their fresh brethren so delicious.
Finally, though, I think I've found a reason to keep canned tomatoes in the pantry. Thanks to Smitten Kitchen's post about Marcela Hazan's simple, winter-friendly tomato sauce, I'm now prepared to invest in multiple cans of San Marzano tomatoes.
The recipe is the epitome of ease; you open the can of tomatoes and dump them into a three-quart pot along with the better part of a stick of butter and a halved onion. Turn the heat to medium, simmer for about an hour - and you're done. You should stir it every once in a while, and don't forget to use the back of your spoon to mush the increasingly tender tomatoes against the side - it's what passes for pureeing in this recipe.
I disagree with Deb on one point - I think the sauce profits a good deal from a modest sprinkling of Parmesan cheese; it adds to the creaminess already going on, and adds a funky note to things that really gets the party started.
Tomato Sauce with Butter and Onions
Adapted from Marcela Hazan’s Essentials of Italian Cooking
28 ounces whole peeled tomatoes from a can (San Marzano are the best!)
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium-sized yellow onion, peeled and halved
Salt to taste
Put the tomatoes, onion and butter in a heavy, 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Bring the sauce to a simmer then lower the heat to keep the sauce at a slow, steady simmer for 45 minutes to an hour, or until drops of fat float free of the tomatoes.
Stir occasionally, crushing the tomatoes against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon. Remove from heat, discard the onion, add salt to taste and keep warm while you prepare your pasta.
Serves four.Those Momofuku cookies I made meant buying some oatmeal, something I don't typically keep around the house. FreshDirect only had a giant size on offer, so now I have enough oatmeal to last me from now until the end of time. In the dual interests of a) not wasting food and b) satisfying my sweet tooth without resorting to snorting marshmallows, I decided to make some of that oatmeal into a dessert.
I cooked half a cup of oats in a cup of boiling water (I turned the heat to low and added a pinch of salt when I added the oats to the pot), stirring occasionally, for about five minutes. Then I plopped the oatmeal in a bowl, dotted it with unsalted butter, and topped things off with a sprinkling of dark brown sugar.
Believe me when I tell you that this is one of the most satisfying desserts I've had in a while - and it's rich in fiber, too. Not too shabby.
A couple weekends ago, during the early January cold snap that enveloped the Eastern states, I took a sunny and very chilly walk across Central Park. I started off near my friends Miya and Jordan's place, at 64th and Central Park West, and left the park at 72nd and 5th. Along the way, I saw the icy towers of Midtown rising above the park's trees (one of my favorite New York sights).
I also passed this statue of Mother Goose. She's pictured astride a goose, and her plinth is covered with carvings depicting scenes from her various tales, including Humpty Dumpty and Little Bo Peep. I love the look of wise glee on Mother Goose's face and the sense of movement she creates, with her cape flying out behind her as she rides the wind.
Behind Mother Goose, two (slightly creepy) children keep watch over the entrance to the Rumsey Playfield. To me, they looked like something out of a horror novel, the sort of imp that comes to life after we've all gone to sleep.
I don't walk through the park nearly as often as I should, and this walk reminded me of that. I've resolved, therefore, to make a weekly pilgrimage from one side to the other. I'll try to document these walks here; I think it'll be really fun to watch the park ebb and flow with the seasons, and I can't think of anything that makes me feel more connected to the city than drinking it in as it was intended: on foot.
I'm sure many of you are sick and tired of hearing me sing the praises of David Chang's Momofuku mini-empire. But know this: if you skip this post, you'll miss out on some damn good cookies.
My friend Lorna Yee (fabulous food writer and cookbook author) lives in Seattle, far from the warm reaches of Momofuku pastry chef Christina Tosi's deliciously retro Milk Bar creations (I think of them as comfort goodies for those born in the 70s and early 80s.). She attended a New Year's brunch where the host had ordered some Milk Bar cookies online, and couldn't get enough of the chocolate chip, cornflake and marshmallow ones. Lorna was "besotted by their butterscotch-sweet and salty flavor, and their crunchy, cornflake texture," and so she set to experimenting with a copycat version.
I officially declare them a success. I made a batch last Friday, to bring on the road trip to Rhode Island, and my cousin Abby - who's had the original - didn't even realize that I'd made them until I told her about Lorna's quest. They're just as Lorna described: rich with butter, sweet with caramel flavors from the dark brown sugar, and crunchy from the cornflakes (of which, I will admit, I added an extra handful or two).
Mine didn't turn out quite as pretty as Lorna's, but, then, she has the golden touch when it comes to pastry. I'm ok with that, especially since I'm fairly confident that mine were just as tasty.
Happy Saturday. everyone, and welcome to the latest edition of the Treasury! It's a gorgeous, sunny day here in New York, and I'm heading out this afternoon to Chinatown for some spicy noodles and serious window shopping. But before I go...
As you all know, I am a big fan of re-usable shopping bags, right down to the mesh produce bags I use at the Greenmarket. So I was really excited to see the London shop Unpackaged featured on the humanitarian design blog, GOOD. Unpackaged sells everything loose - spices, produce, nuts, grains - and you bring your own packaging (or buy your own at the store). The store itself is just beautiful, and I can't help but be won over by the concept.
Over on Serious Eats, they're talking about claypot cooking. Rice, sausage, and a crispy crust? I need to try this, stat.
The New York Times has added a regular coffee feature (entitled Ristretto) to its T Magazine blog line-up. Authored by Oliver Strand, one of the paper's $25-and-under columnists and staff food writers, it's a great look at coffee in the city, and coffee preparation in general. Speaking of which, I think a cup of espresso would hit the spot right now.
Much to my delight and chagrin, FreshDirect is finally carrying Mallomars. This will be my downfall.
I remember trying to order these last year (Mallomars, you see, have a season - their delicate chocolate shells can't survive harsh Northeastern summers.), but with no luck. But just last week I thought it was worth searching FreshDirect's site for them - and there they were!
For those of you who've never experienced their awesomeness, Mallomars consist of a graham cookie topped with marshmallow and covered in a thin, dark chocolate shell. They are, to say the least, delicious. (They're also famous, having made their big screen debut in When Harry Met Sally.) They're also vastly more popular in New York than anywhere else; according to Nabisco, who manufacture the cookies, more than 70% of all Mallomars are sold in the New York-New Jersey-Connecticut Tri-State area.
For the most part, I believe in making cookies, and not buying them - particularly not when they're mass-produced. But Mallomars are where I make an exception, because there's just nothing quite like them.
Now excuse me while I go try to forget that I still have half a box left.
About a year ago, I resolved to bring my lunch to work at least three days a week, and with very few exceptions, I've done it! One of the ways I manage it is to make something on Sunday that will see me through a lunch or two. Braised dishes and stews are fantastic for this, since they not only keep well, but actually get better after a couple of days in the fridge.
(A quick aside: I highly recommend bringing your lunch to work. Not only do you save money, you also eat so much more nutritiously and consciously. It's made a huge difference to my working style, too - since I don't have to run out for fifteen or twenty minutes in the middle of every day, I can more easily meet with people over lunch or run out to do errands at 3:00, when the stores are empty. I love it.)
I've made chicken with barley and a (somewhat) traditional coq au vin, but one of my favorite braised chicken dishes is one I've adapted from a recipe I first made during my eGullet days. My friend Susan created this recipe, and I've loved it from the very first bite. She makes hers with fresh plum tomatoes and creme fraiche; I sub in half-and-half, since it's what I keep in the fridge for my coffee, and during the winter I use canned tomatoes - but, in spirit, it's still the same dish.
And I'll be damned if it isn't delicious. It's substantial from the vegetables, creamy from the cooking time and the half-and-half, and tangy from the vinegar. During the summer, I use basil and parsley to season things, but this time of year I keep it wintry with a little woodsy thyme. Most of the time, I eat it by itself, but it's also fantastic with buttered noodles or some mashed potatoes. Really, anything goes. Anything at all.
Susan's Braised Chicken with Tomatoes & Vinegar
1 tbs. canola oil
Dark meat of one chicken (two legs, two thighs, two wings)
1/2 white onion, cut into a 1/4-inch dice
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 small carrot, peeled and cut into a 1/4-inch dice
1 stalk celery, cut into a 1/4-inch dice
1 tbs. fresh thyme leaves
1/8 cup white wine or champagne vinegar
1/2 cup white wine
14 oz. whole canned plum tomatoes in puree, crushed with your hands
1 or 2 tbs. half-and-half, milk, creme fraiche or cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper
In a 3-quart, heavy-bottomed pot (enameled cast iron is ideal), heat the canola oil over high heat. In the meantime, season the skin side of the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Once the oil is hot enough (a droplet of water should sizzle and skitter across the surface), place half the chicken pieces in the pot, skin side down, and turn the heat to medium high. Cook until the chicken is well-browned on one side, then flip and cook for a few more minutes. Using tongs, remove the cooked chicken to a plate and repeat with the rest of the chicken.
Pour off all but 1 tbs. of the fat from the bottom of the pot and return to the heat. Add the onion and saute for a few minutes until softened and a little browned. Add the garlic and saute for a minute or two more, until the garlic is fragrant and slightly golden. Add the carrots, celery, thyme and a pinch of salt; saute until the vegetables soften, about five minutes.
Deglaze the pan with the vinegar, then add the wine. Simmer for a couple of minutes and then add the tomatoes (with their puree). Stir to combine evenly, then add the chicken back to the pot, nestling the pieces in the vegetable mixture. sprinkle with a bit more salt and some pepper, then turn the heat to low, cover and simmer (Do NOT boil!) for 25 to 30 minutes.
Once the chicken is cooked through and the sauce has turned a bit creamy-looking, remove the chicken to a plate and stir the sauce. Add the half-and-half and stir to combine. If you're planning to store the stew overnight (or longer), add the chicken back to the pot and let things cool down a bit on the stovetop. Once the pot is no longer hot to the touch, place in the fridge. The dish keeps for five or six days, easily.
If you plan to serve immediately, taste and adjust for seasoning, then place a piece or two of chicken on each plate and top with plenty of sauce.
Serves three.
This past Saturday, I drove up to Rhode Island to visit my aunt and uncle in Bristol. They were hosting a 30th birthday party for my cousin Kate, who's been one of my closest friends pretty much since time began. (See the photo below for evidence.) We had a fantastic time - my Aunt Cathi cooked up a storm, including some of the most delicious chicken Marsala of all time (the secret is roasting the mushrooms and onions separately and with lots of balsamic vinegar).Yesterday, on the way back to the city, my cousin Jason, his wife Abby and I stopped at a McDonald's in northern Connecticut for a road trip fix. I only indulge in Mickey D's a couple of times a year, and always when traveling. It's my airport and highway rest stop food of choice, and I wouldn't have it any other way.
Chicken nuggets, fries and Sweet & Sour sauce: pure, salty perfection. Yum.
Hello, kiddies! I'm back from hiatus and ready to rock. This week's Treasury is a little late, but it's still technically the weekend here in the States, so I'm ok with it. Here we go!
First up, some majorly impressive food styling and photography from the website of Helene Dujardin, a stylist based in South Carolina and author of the food blog Tartelette. Inspiration abounds on her site and her blog. Those pears make me want to buy some mascarpone and get creative with a pear-centric feast - or just eat slices smeared with the cheese. Either way.
Next, a new website dedicated to guiding you through the shopping riches offered by the UK. From Britain with Love launched earlier this month, and is already on fire! Their blog is fantastic, and they have some of the best gift ideas I've seen recently. And, for those of you in the UK, some excellent contests (Sadly, we foreigners are not eligible.).
Finally, a look at Marimekko's Oiva dinnerware line, which will be released later this year. I love all of it, especially the coffee cups. Being handle-free makes them all the more cozy (you have to literally cup them in your hands), and I can't get enough of their blobby-yet-geometrically-satisfying pattern.
Working in midtown Manhattan is, most of the time, kind of a pain in the butt. It's crowded, it's full of bad, over-priced food, and it's just not as good as working across the street from Madison Square Park (like I used to). It's not completely without its rewards, though, and one of those is the fantastic mid-century architecture that abounds in the East 50s.
I work at 52nd and Madison, which means I pass both Lever House and the Seagram Building on my way to the office. On a clear, sunny day, looking up at either of those towers and glass and steel fills me with a Mary Tyler Moore-esque swell of excitement. I realize where I am, and I get all tingly.
One of the cooler things about Lever House is their rotating collection of art on public display in their glass-walled lobby and open-air atrium. The current installation, by Richard Woods, is entitled Port Sunlight, and is just plain awesome. The pillars and benches inside and surrounding the lobby (and the floor of the lobby itself) have been printed with mosaic motifs, from feathers to black and white patterns with graphic punch.
Walking through the atrium makes me feel warm and cozy, like I'm strolling through a Caribbean plaza immersed in equatorial sun. If you're in New York - either as a resident or a tourist - I highly recommend a visit to 53rd and Park to check it out.
Photos courtesy of Richard Woods and This Week In New York.
Hello there, dear readers!
I'm so sorry to have missed you last week, and though the next few days promise to be just as nutty, I'm spending this blessedly obligation-free afternoon getting content ready for posting all week long.
Since we last spoke, I took a walk across Central Park in 20-degree weather, went on a road trip to Yale and Rhode Island, make some awesome cookies and rediscovered my love for Mallomars. More on all of that very, very soon.
Mwah!
Hello, my lovelies! It's been a crazy few days chez Queenie, and promises to remain so for at least another day or two. That means I have to shy away a bit from my bloggerly duties this week. Rest assured I miss you all and will be back in full force later this week. In the meantime, I'll be doing my real job and dreaming of a getaway.
Hawaii? Paris? I can't decide! Which would you choose? (Never mind that it's a complete fantasy either way, at least until that tax rebate comes through.)
It's a cold, clear Saturday here in New York, and I spent my afternoon hanging out with my friends Jordan and Miya and their adorable daughter, Emi. We ate eggs in purgatory (delicious) and drank copious amounts of coffee. After lunch, I walked home across Central Park and just generally enjoyed the crisp glory that is New York in winter.
And then I realized - hey, I need to write a Treasury post! So here I am, and here we go.First up, a craving-inducing Flickr group from the folks at A Hamburger Today. A whole photo pool full of mouthwatering burger shots. And more burger shots. I die, truly. I warn you - do not click through if you're not ready to give in and have a burger for dinner.
Next, a potentially exciting development in the world of unctuous goodness: could chicken skin be the next bacon? As a major fan of Kasadela's grilled chicken skin on a stick, I applaud this potential shift, especially it's tip-to-tail sensibility. Bring on the crispy skin, I say.
Finally, something that makes your brain happy, as opposed to just your tummy. Some gorgeous, fun pieces from pop pop portraits, one of my favorite Etsy sellers. I just love Helena's fashion-oriented, nostalgic aesthetic. I wouldn't mind having her paint my portrait, so long as she helps me choose the outfit as well. (Discovered these a while ago, but was reminded of them by PVE Design!)
It's freaking freezing in New York this week, and what better excuse for copious amounts of hot chocolate and cozy couch time than frigid weather?
In that spirit, I direct your attention to this vintage Queenie post, which contains the best recipe for hot chocolate I've found yet. It comes to us courtesy of pastry genius Pierre Hermé, and is the closest thing to Prague hot chocolate around. (That's high praise, as far as I'm concerned.)
Enjoy, and stay warm!
My friend Cristin came over for a cheese & chocolate-filled dinner on New Year's Eve. After the marathon of cooking that comprised the week of Christmas, I wasn't quite ready to do a full-scale four-course dinner, so I decided on something a bit simpler. I left out the meat course, and instead settled on a browned-butter butternut squash risotto (recipe to follow shortly), molten chocolate cakes, and an oozy, champagne-friendly Brillat-Savarin to finish.
I promise details on the risotto and the cheese, but first, the cakes. These cakes, based on Jean-Georges Vongerichten's iconic version (What dessert better defines the 1990s?), are pretty much the easiest dessert in the history of the world. You melt chocolate and add it to eggs beaten with sugar, then spike it with a bit of vanilla and espresso. Oh, and, there are two teaspoons of flour in there, too. Yes, just two teaspoons.
The cakes bake at a high temperature (450°F) for just a couple of minutes, and then they're ready to go. They're best when served with some lightly whipped cream, but they do pretty well on their own, too. And since they take about 15 minutes total to whip up, they work as a mid-week treat as well as a dinner party finale.
Molten Chocolate Cakes
Adapted from Jean-Georges Vongerichten & Mark Bittman
You can use any kind of custard cup, ramekin or mold for these cakes; my favorite cookware for these are the fluted brioche molds I picked up in Paris last year!
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for molds
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting molds
4 ounces very good bittersweet chocolate
2 large whole eggs
2 large egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons instant espresso powder
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Butter and lightly flour four 4-ounce molds, ramekins, or custard cups. Tap out excess flour; butter and flour them again, and set aside. (Don't skimp on this - you definitely need to double-grease and flour these.
Gently melt the butter and chocolate together in the top of a double boiler (You can fashion one yourself using a heatproof bowl and a pan of simmering water.). Heat until the chocolate has almost completely melted, then stir to combine evenly. Cool slightly.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or using a hand-held mixer and a medium bowl), beat together eggs, yolks, and sugar until light and thick. Add melted chocolate mixture, and beat to combine. Quickly beat in flour, espresso powder and vanilla until just combined. Divide batter evenly among the molds.
(At this point, you can refrigerate the cakes until an hour before you're ready to bake them off. Just cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to a day. Remove from the fridge about an hour before you're ready to bake them.)
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place filled molds on a rimmed baking sheet, and bake until the sides have set but the centers remain soft, 4 to 6 minutes.
Invert each mold onto a plate, and let rest 10 seconds. Unmold by lifting up one corner of the mold; the cake will fall out easily onto the plate. Serve immediately.
Serves four; easily divides to feed fewer or multiplies to feed more.
Remember how I swore I'd never try a Doughnut Plant doughnut away from the place of origin ever again? Well, that was until I showed up at Joe The Art of Coffee super-hungry (no breakfast, no lunch) one day last week. On offer? One of Doughnut Plant's seasonal cake doughnut flavors: pomegranate.
Oh. My. Gah.
This doughnut was absolutely delicious. A combination of almost-savory cake and a sweet, pomegranate seed-studded glaze. Just - wow.
I stand corrected.
Oh, and the cappuccino was darn good, too.
Welcome to the first Treasury of 2010, guys! I hope you enjoy the tidbits I've gathered here for you today. I'm spending most of my day cleaning the apartment, packing up the decorations and generally getting ready to go back to work on Monday after two crazy weeks off. At some point, I have to do laundry. Sigh. But, in the meantime...
This week the New York Times had a fun story on the resurgence of the bar cart. Driven in equal parts by the cocktail revival and the vintage obsession fueled by Mad Men, it's one of the best decor comebacks ever, in my opinion. I'm on the lookout for a small version, preferably no more than 20 inches wide, to tuck in next to my Expedit bookcase. Any ideas?
Asian Jewish Deli, one of my favorite foodblogs (not least for the incredible photography) recently spent a week cooking from the new Momofuku cookbook. Ramen, banh mi, pork buns, Fuji apple salad...all tackled, and all gorgeous. If you're curious about how the book measures up, you must read this series of posts.
Finally, a little shelter blog action for you. The Little Big House is a blog about three sisters (one of them an architect, one a photographer) who've bought a Greek Revival fixer-upper in the Catskills. It's a renovation blog, yes, but also features great style and decor tips along with stories of plaster and sheetrock. As someone who's been eyeing property upstate herself, I have to say I'm hooked!
Happy New Year!
If you're at all like me today, you're getting off to a late and slightly shaky start, and are looking for excuses to curl up cozily for the remainder of the day. That's where this next bit comes in...
If you haven't been reading Maira Kalman's And the Pursuit of Happiness blog in the New York Times, now's the time to check it out. The last installment was published today, and you can read the whole set over here.
The pieces are a set of musings on the history and meaning of the United States. What does it mean to be American, and what does it mean, this "pursuit of happiness?" It's a beautiful series, full of Kalman's signature swirling illustrations, saturated with color and full of energy and life. She visits Mount Vernon, explores the locavore & organic movements with Alice Waters and discusses the life of Benjamin Franklin. For starters.
The blog will be turned into a book, to be published in October of this year (Yes, 2010 - this year!). I, for one, can't wait.
The aughts are coming to a close tonight, and I've decided to join the frenzy of lists appearing across the interwebs. Mine is a fairly personal, navel-gazing sort of list; instead of naming the biggest events in the food world in general, I've decided to focus on the most significant moments of my food- and drink-centered life over the last decade.
I turned 21 in 2000 and graduated from college in 2001, so the aughts have encompassed my early adulthood, my twenties. They're the years I spent finding my home (Hello, New York!), my career (user experience research and design, for now) and my taste (Sriracha, bacon and Vietnamese food, FTW!). In fact, it's pretty darn hard to distill the most important moments of my eating life down to a list of just ten top ones, so please forgive me for any that seem like I'm cheating by, say, essentially granting a tie to every single moment of my 2006 trip to Europe. Please?
All right, here goes!
Number 10: My first taste of Far Niente's Dolce.
As you all know, I am a huge fan of dessert wines both funky and sweet, and particularly of those that combine the two. Before I tried Sauternes or Banyuls, though, I drank Dolce - which is America's most delicious answer to the former. I still remember my first sip, which took place one boozy Saturday night in 2004, at Ouest with Nick and Louisa, when Nick ordered a 375 ml bottle for the three of us to share. I'd never tasted anything quite like it - syrupy, but not sickly, and infinitely musky and complex. I'd go on to tour the winery in 2006, where my mom practically had to restrain me from buying a whole case.Number 9: Dinner at Alinea.
This one just made it in under the wire, happening as it did in November 2009. My first (and hopefully not last) dinner at Alinea was predictably delicious, and - despite the giant spoiler effect of following Grant Achatz's restaurant for years - surprising and exciting. It was a meal unlike any other I've ever eaten, one where craftsmanship was present in every bite and whimsy never once trumped flavor. A truly incredible experience.
Number 8: Discovering the wonder of Vietnamese food.
Gradually, over the last eight years, my Asian cuisine of choice has slowly shifted from Chinese, to Thai, and finally alighted on Vietnamese. The original Asian fusion, Vietnamese food combines Asian ingredients and flavors with French technique, and has given us such culinary delights as pho (a noodle soup like no other) and the currently super-trendy banh mi, a sandwich full of terrine, herbs, pickles and pate, served on that most French of breads, the baguette. It's slightly funky, thanks to the ever-present fish sauce, but also refined, thanks to a balance of flavors and textures. And I just can't get enough.Number 7: Making banh mi at home.
Speaking of Vietnamese food - but, seriously, folks...I'm including this past summer's banh mi-fest not only because the results were delicious, but because I think it marks a culmination of the collaborative cooking and exploration Louisa and I have done together. We push one another to try new and different techniques and ingredients, using our time together each summer to tackle a couple of new projects. These banh mi, for which we made everything from scratch - even grinding our own meat - save the bread, are our proudest achievement to date. A repeat performance is planned, and we'll be upping the ante by baking our own baguettes.
Number 6: Ditching vodka for booze with actual flavor.
Just as there's a place for water in the pantheon of great beverages, there's one for vodka. That place, however, is not in a cocktail, and certainly not in a martini. If there's one thing for which my boozehound side is most grateful to the aughts, it's the cocktail craze, and, in particular, the resurgence of brown spirits and gin. Gin is just...better. As is bourbon. And dark rum. And...everything. Vodka is great in a Russian restaurant, served ice cold alongside caviar, but that's about it. I know some of you disagree, and that's your perogative. But, you're, um, wrong.Number 5: Discovering Thomas Keller.
Obviously, I didn't discover Chef Keller, but he didn't mean much to me before, oh, 2003 or 2004, at which point I became obsessed with eating in at least one of his restaurants. Since then, I've cooked from three of his cookbooks (Bouchon, The French Laundry and Ad Hoc), eaten at three of his restaurants (Per Se, Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery) and become a devoted fan. His mashup of American ingredients and know-how with classic French technique may no longer be revolutionary, but it's still revelatory: I dare you not to fall in love with Bouchon's entire menu. Go ahead - in fact, I double-dog dare you.
Number 4: Joining eGullet.
I joined the internet food fray in 2005, when I became a member (and, eventually, a staffer) of eGullet. For a time, it was my absolutely favorite place on the web. Full of interesting, smart people who knew a ton about home cooking and the restaurant world, it was where I first stretched my food-loving wings, and, in particular, my food-writing muscles. It's where I learned about Sriracha and how to make puff pastry. It's where I learned how to take decent photographs of food. And, most significantly, the two week-long foodblogs I did there in 2006 and 2007 gave me the confidence I needed to start my own blog, which is coming up on its (gasp) third anniversary.Number 3: Making my first mayonnaise.
I read Amanda Hesser's memoir Cooking For Mr. Latte when it first came out in 2003. It was a sweet book, but I was more interested in the food than in the love story, and was determined to become as sophisticated an epicurean as Ms. Hesser herself. Thus inspired, I made my first mayonnaise from her recipe, and have been whisking ever since. It marked the first time I ventured into truly classical, technique-focused cooking, and the deliciousness of homemade mayonnaise convinced me that (most) shortcuts are, indeed, for suckers.
2. My trip to Europe with Louisa.
Louisa and I spent two weeks in Prague, Strasbourg, Champagne and Paris in 2006. The trip cemented us as best friends, thanks in great part to the enormous amount of bonding we did over food and drink. Whether it was duck in a Prague pub, flutes of Champagne in a Reims tasting room, or steak tartare in Paris, the food we ate and the sights we saw created a common set of memories and experiences that will be ours, alone, forever. It also happens that the trip included two of my top meals of all time (at Chez Yvonne and Camille in Strasbourg and Paris, respectively), the best eclair in history, and the most satisfying doner kebab ever. All in all, two weeks that will live in memory - actually, in perpetuity, thanks to the internet.
1. Shopping at the Union Square Greenmarket.
Blame it on Dan Barber, Michael Pollan - whomever. For a myriad of reasons, I started shopping seasonally and locally a few years ago, and have no plans to go back. Oh, sure, I still buy frozen vegetables, and I do buy cucumbers out of season - not to mention the occasional flown-in fish. But, thanks to New York City's incredible Greenmarket network, I've been able to do a remarkable thing: support local businesses, reduce my carbon footprint, and make super food - all at the same time. Nothing's changed my eating habits more drastically in the last decade than my effort to shop as much as possible in Union Square (or at one of the other Greenmarket outposts around the city), and, for that I am grateful.
So, folks - if you've managed to stick it out this long - what were the formative moments of the aughts for you? Share in the comments - and Happy New Year!
As I mentioned yesterday, we had quite a crowd here in New York for the holiday last week. Family, friends - you name it, they came. For dinner on the Wednesday before Christmas Eve, I'd made us a reservation for Momofuku Ssäm Bar's famous Bo Ssäm dinner. The Bo Ssäm is the only way to make a reservation ahead of time (much like the fried chicken dinner at Momofuku Noodle Bar), and is quite the event: a Berkshire pork shoulder, smothered in sugar and spices and slow-roasted, a dozen raw oysters, rice, kimchi, condiments, and lettuce in which to wrap it all up.
But we'd have be remiss if we didn't sample some of the other menu items, wouldn't we? (The answer is, yes, we would.) In order to prevent such a situation, we provisioned ourselves with some tasty items from the regular menu. First, and most deliciously, the fried brussels sprouts. Deep fried and dressed in a fish sauce vinaigrette, the sprouts are then topped with chili-dusted crisped rice. Crispy, salty, spicy heaven. We ordered two bowlfuls, and I ate mine with Sriracha.Next up, another old favorite, and a particular obsession of my little brother, Jeremy. The steamed pork buns. I love these buns (though I'm now slightly more in love with the mushroom buns at Noodle Bar), but not without - you guessed it - a healthy glug of my beloved Sriracha. The spiciness brings the crisp, lightly-pickled cucumbers and fatty pork belly into stark, perfect relief. Without it, the buns are a bit flat for my taste.
Bread and butter is an obvious must, and Momofuku's version, predictably, takes things way over the top. Warm, crackly baguette compliments rich, creamy butter (topped with musky black pepper) and whipped lardo (cured, rendered pig fat, people) (topped with red pepper). The butter is perfect as-is, but the lardo is brought to life by a sprinkle of salt.
After two orders of seasonal pickles (so popular they didn't even make it to my camera) and several gorgeous cocktails poured by the incomparable Don Lee (The Reverend Palmer, made with tea-infused bourbon, lemon syrup and bitters, is my new obsession), it was time for the main event.One by one, the waiters set the components of the Bo Ssäm down on the table. First up, the dozen oysters, which were destined to be tucked inside our little lettuce wraps. Next came the lettuce itself, along with the four different condiments: kimchi, pureed kimchi, barbecue sauce and ginger scallion sauce (which also made an appearance at our fried chicken dinner).
Then, alongside two bowls of steamed white rice (nice and sticky) came the big piece of meat. There's no other way to describe it, really - it's a giant, gorgeous, hunk of pork. Crispy and sweet and fatty, it's tender all the way through and covered with a delicious, chewy skin. It is, in a word, fantastic in its pure, indulgent porkiness.
My favorite combination was lettuce, rice, a bit of kimchi, some barbecue sauce, and a squeeze of Sriracha. Can't forget the Sriracha.
After stuffing ourselves silly (between the ten of us, we finished about 7/8 of the shoulder), we turned down the offer of dessert, but accepted a round of eggnog. Light and fluffy (for eggnog, of course) and just slightly boozy, it was a great way to end what was, no doubt, the most over-the-top meal of the week. Sigh. Bo Ssäm, how I do love thee.
When you have a group of 10 for Christmas, there's only so much cooking you can handle. That's why, for dinner on Christmas Eve, my motley crew of family and friends headed to one of my favorite, most reliable spots: Ouest.
We arrived a bit early and ordered a round of drinks. Sadly, the bar was out of the brown butter-infused bourbon I'd so enjoyed a couple of weeks ago, so I ordered a plain old Manhattan, straight up. Nick sprang for the Oue-side, a new sidecar variation that turned out to be a bit too sweet - sad, too as it's so awfully pretty (evidence above).Our table for 10 wasn't ready until almost forty-five minutes after our reservation time, which was a problem mostly because we had a church service to make later in the evening. However, despite this snafu, I have to commend Ouest's staff for whisking us through dinner without sacrificing quality of food or service - and for buying our wine and desserts. They definitely made up for the issue.
The most popular first course at the table (I think three of us ordered it) was a new menu item. It's a bone marrow dish, but one unlike any I've had before. The bone marrow was removed from the bone and seared, which turned it into a crisped nugget of gooey goodness, and the bone was filled with a creamy, sweet short rib and onion marmalade. While I still see a place for the traditional bone marrow and parsley combo, I have to say that this version was absolutely delicious.
Jeremy ordered one of my long-time favorites, a crispy duck egg served atop a few razor-thin slices of smoked duck breast, some greens and a healthy dose of aioli. Crunchy, meaty, smoky and garlicky, it's a dish that simultaneously satisfies multiple cravings.
For my main, I went with another old standby - the squab with duck liver risotto. It it always fantastic, and Christmas Eve was no exception. The squab was perfectly cooked to a tender medium-rare, and the risotto was creamy but retained that essential bite - after all, it's not porridge, people!
Many folks stayed for dessert, but I and a few others hopped up and out to make it to church on time (I go twice a year, so it doesn't do to walk in late, you know?). Marrow, squab and Christmas carols - what more could a girl want?
After almost two weeks of nonstop cooking, hostessing, and general merriment, this past Sunday was a true day of rest for me. With nowhere to go and nothing to do (until a 4:10 showing of Up In The Air, which I saw with my brother, and which we both really enjoyed) - it was time for a little cooking and a little relaxation.
Nothing says comfort food to me like pasta, and since I happened to have some saffron fettucine lying around (from an aborted attempt at pasta with beets during one of those bouts of hostessing), I decided to whip up a big bowl of comfort. I chopped some bacon, onion and garlic, defrosted a handful of frozen peas and drained a carton of heavy cream of its last dregs. A sprinkling of parmesan and a few grinds of pepper later, I had a perfect plate of pasta.
I ate it on the couch, in front of the television. I may or may not have geeked out entirely by watching Doctor Who. I'll never tell.
Pasta with Peas, Bacon and Cream
1/4 lb. fresh fettucine (plain old spaghetti from a box would work, too)
1/4 c. bacon, sliced into 1/4 inch batons
1 tsp. olive oil
1/4 of a white onion, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
1/3 cup frozen peas, defrosted
1/4 c. chives, finely chopped
1 tbs. heavy cream
1/8 c. finely grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
In a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the pasta to al dente. Drain and set aside.
Place a medium skillet over high heat until a drop of water sizzles when dropped on its surface. Reduce the heat to medium-high and add the bacon, cooking until crisp and until most of the fat is rendered. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and set aside. Pour all but a light coating of the bacon fat off.
Add the olive oil to the pan and saute the onions (with a pinch of salt) for a few minutes, until they are slightly softened and beginning to turn a little golden. Add the garlic and saute for a few minutes more, until fragrant. Add the peas and half the chives, a bit more salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Saute for a few minutes, until peas are warmed through and garlic is golden.
Add the pasta to the pan along with the cream, and combine with the pea mixture. Keep on the heat a few minutes to cook everything together, then transfer to a plate or shallow bowl. Top with Parmesan cheese and the remaining chives, adjust seasonings and eat!
Serves one, generously.
I'm always up for a new bourbon cocktail, so when Nick and Louisa suggested we try one at their hotel last week, who was I to refuse? They were staying at The Surrey, which has this nifty in-room cocktail service where you order a bottle of booze and in-room dining provides the cocktail's other ingredients. So cool.
We decided to try the Brown Derby, a bourbon cocktail named for the restaurant where it was invented, the legendary Hollywood eatery. Made with grapefruit, bourbon and honey, it seemed an intriguing blend of sour and sweet, a sort of pucker-inducing twist on a bourbon sidecar.
We were right! The cocktail is a boozy delight, garnished with a grapefruit twist for an extra kick of bitter-sour-citrus bite and fairly alcohol-forward, thanks to, well, all that bourbon. A perfect winter cocktail, and with grapefruits coming into season shortly, I plan to try this one at home - soon.
Brown Derby
2 1/2 oz. bourbon
1 oz. grapefruit juice
1/2 oz. honey
Grapefruit twist (a 1-inch section of peel, minus the bitter pith)
Place all ingredients in a cocktail shaker half-filled with ice. Shake gently until condensation appears on the side of the shaker. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass, and serve immediately.
Serves one.
I love gravlax. I love its slightly oily sweetness, its silky texture, its gloriously hot pink color. I also love how incredibly easy it is to prepare, and how easily it impresses those to whom you serve it. When you think about it, there is something truly special about any foodstuff cured at home - but making gravlax is a heck of a lot easier than making your own bacon.
See, this is all you have to do. This. Is. It. You take a piece of skin-on salmon fillet, rub it all over with sugar and salt, cover it in some more of the same (plus some peppercorns and dill), and let it sit for a couple days. That. Is. All.
Seriously.
Well, you do have to make the sauce to serve alongside, it's true. Sure, you could serve it plain, or with sour cream, but why? This espresso mustard sauce, adapted from a recipe by Aquavit's chef, Marcus Samuelsson, is so good that you'll want to eat it on everything (It's particularly good on warm potatoes, especially when you add a little dill.).
Oh, and - you still have time to make this for your New Year's Eve cocktail party (or New Year's Day brunch). Just sayin'.
Home-Cured Gravlax with Espresso-Mustard Sauce
Adapted from Marcus Samuelsson
For the gravlax:
2 c. granulated sugar
1 c. kosher salt
2 tbs. cracked peppercorns (black or white)
2 lbs. skin-on salmon fillet, in one or two pieces
1 bunch fresh dill
For the sauce:
2 tbs. Dijon mustard
1 tbs. honey
1 tsp. sugar
1 tbs. instant espresso powder
1 1/2 tbs. white wine vinegar
3/4 c. grapeseed or canola oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To prepare the gravlax:
Combine the sugar, salt and peppercorns in a small bowl. Place the salmon in a shallow, non-reactive (glass or ceramic) dish large enough to hold the fish in one layer. Rub the fish all over with the sugar and salt mixture, then lay flat in the dish. Cover with the rest of the salt and sugar, then top with dill. Cover with plastic wrap and set in a cool place to cure for 6 hours. After 6 hours, place the dish in the refrigerator to cure for another 24-36 hours.
When ready to serve, slice off the skin and thinly slice the fillet across the grain. Serve with crackers or thinly-sliced bread and the espresso-mustard sauce.
To prepare the sauce:
Combine the mustard, honey, sugar, espresso powder and vinegar in the bowl of a blender or mini-prep. With the blender on, add the oil in a thin stream until combined. Mixture should be thick and creamy. (You can also do this with a whisk; use the technique described here for mayonnaise.) Taste and adjust for seasoning. Serve alongside the gravlax.
Serves 6-8 as an appetizer.
It's time for Apartment Therapy's annual Homie Awards, a series of awards recognizing shelter blogs, including design & cooking. If you're so inclined, it would be lovely if you could pop over and nominate Queenie Takes Manhattan in the Home Cooking category - and don't forget to vote for your other favorites while you're there!
You can nominate Queenie here (just click on the little "+add" button in the house icon), and see all other nominees right here.
Go forth and nominate - and thank you!
Merry Christmas, my lovely readers!
I hope that today brings you all kinds of delightful gifts and togetherness, be it family or otherwise. I'll be spending the day with family and friends - a group fairly similar to the one that accompanied me to California to celebrate my 30th birthday, including my best friend, Louisa - and I couldn't be more excited about it. Add to that the fact that I didn't have to travel this year, and I'm practically over the moon.
My mom sent me this shot of my grandparents' Connecticut living room on Christmas morning (I'm guessing it's 1984 or 1985). That there on the left is my first kitchen, which, much like my current version, has no dishwasher. I feel, therefore, that it prepared me well for Manhattan living. Well done, Mom!
What Christmas present do you remember best from years past? And what are you all up to today? Can't wait to hear all about it!
I'm deep in the midst of Christmastide here in New York, and was very excited to see an early Christmas present in my RSS feed this afternoon. The Internet Food Association (a super-cool blog started by a bunch of D.C.-area journalists) chose my photo of Ouest's gougeres for their daily Food Porn pic.
Thanks, guys!
Louisa and I hosted one hell of a dinner party on Saturday night (full details soon, I promise), at which eight bottles of wine were consumed between six people. (Not to mention the Manhattan apiece enjoyed by me, Nick and Louisa.) Like I said - a hell of a party. So it's no wonder that the three of us were a bit dazed when we gathered at Aquavit for brunch.
The waiter started us off with a glass of Glögg each. Glögg, for those of you who, like me, are among the uninitiated, is not dissimilar to the German mulled wine Glühwein. Marcus Samuelsson, the chef at Aquavit, starts his with citrus and spice-infused vodka and adds red wine, port and sugar. If you think that sounds potent, you'd be right. Wowza. Delicious, but a bit too much for this one post-party.In addition to the Glögg, Aquavit offers a complimentary cocktail or glass of juice with its brunch, which is a traditional Swedish smörgåsbord - yes, a smörgåsbord! An all-you-can eat, stuff-yourself-with-gravlax-and-pickled-herring-and-meatballs brunch! For my cocktail, I chose the Danish Mary, made with aquavit (instead of vodka) and garnished with a cucumber, lemon wedge and fresh horseradish. Unlike the Glögg, this hit the spot, and the magic of the hair of the dog kicked right in.
First up, fish and eggs! Nick went straight for the table of pickled herring (there are always at least six varieties on offer), but I couldn't face it, and opted instead (clockwise from three o'clock) for a big pile of gravlax, a pond of the unparalleled espresso-mustard sauce, a bit of mushroom omelet, a tomato wedge, potato salad and a cup of langoustine bisque.
Everything was delicious, in particular the potato salad, which has a healthy dose of salty capers, and, like everything else, a bunch of chopped dill. The mushroom omelet also deserves a shout; it was filled with sauteed wild mushrooms (Yay!) and some kind of oozy, delicious, creamy substance (could have been a very mild cheese) that soothed my wounded soul.The gravlax was, as always, superlative. I cannot get enough of Aquavit's gravlax, and I can't imagine I ever will.
Next up, a cold meats course! As you can see from my plate, I couldn't resist the siren call of the gravlax this round, either. Clockwise from the gravlax, we've got cornichons, another tomato wedge, steamed potatoes, beet salad, bread and, in the center, a slice each of foie gras and country pâté, topped with grainy Swedish mustard.
Aside from the gravlax, my favorites in this round were the country pâté (I think I'm hopelessly doomed by my Eastern European peasant roots to prefer it to foie gras forever and ever.) and the perfectly steamed potatoes. The latter went a looong way to curing my hangover blues.Finally, the hot meats course - or, as Louisa termed it, "the hot meat injection." (I may pay later for revealing that one.) The one problem with this course is how full of gravlax I typically am by the time I make it here. I suppose I could work on that, but I don't wanna! In any case, here we have (clockwise from top) red cabbage, cucumber salad, Swedish meatballs, Johansson's Temptation (potatoes with cream and anchovy), roasted brussels sprouts and parsnip, cider-mustard rib, venison and Swedish sausages and lingonberry sauce in the middle.
I have a special affection for Aquavit's Swedish meatballs (particularly smorgasbord-style, when I can freely up the proportion of cucumber to meatball), but they were outshone by the awesomeness of the braised ribs. Holy man, were those good. Possibly their fattiness worked some sort of alchemy on my alcohol-soaked body - whatever the reason, I really want them again for dinner, preferably tonight. And the Johansson's Tempation? Also sinfully delicious. (And the fantastic name doesn't hurt, either.)
Finally, dessert. I couldn't even get up from the table to help myself, so Louisa brought me a yeasted, brioche-like roll studded with raisins and glazed with egg and sugar. It was great with coffee, but didn't rock my world like the savory courses. In fact, I have to say that dessert at Aquavit has never rocked my world. For me, it's all about the meatballs.
And the gravlax, of course.
Aquavit
65 East 55th Street
Between Park and Madison
212.307.7311
Well, then, you're in luck! Serious Eats is giving away a whole Two Little Red Hens cake this week. If you've read the blog before, you know that I am a big fan of Two Little Red Hens' goodies - I'm even serving their scones for breakfast on Christmas morning.That's an endorsement if ever there was one, in my opinion - but, in case you're not convinced, have a look at some of my past posts about the Hens and their fabulosity. But don't spend too long dawdling here; much as I'd love you to spend the whole day poking around in my archives, you have to enter the giveaway by noon EST on December 24th to qualify!
Go, go, go!
Snow has a way of transforming New York, of softening its edges and making it just a smidge more magical than usual. This weekend's snowstorm was a gorgeous one, leaving heaps and drifts of the white stuff in its wake.
Even midtown is magical when it snows, don't you think?
And nothing says "Christmas" like a tree covered in real, honest-to-goodness snow. Yay!
The holiday craziness has descended upon me, my friends. I've been cooking up a storm for two days now, getting ready for the dinner party I'm throwing with Louisa tonight. It's going to be quite a feast (if I do say so myself), and I promise full details shortly. In the meantime, here's some Treasury goodness to keep you going.
First, from New York Magazine's annual Reasons To Love New York issue, a look at the best and brightest of the city's soups. Just in time for the bitter cold weather we've been having (and my two weeks off from work). Score! (For those of you not lucky enough to be in New York right now, the magazine's Grub Street blog offers guides to soup in Boston, Philly, Chicago, San Francisco and Los Angeles.)
You all know how obsessed I am with Serious Eats' Food Lab series (mainly, I think, because I could never be patient enough to be so scientific about my food), and this week's edition is no exception. Just in time for Christmas (Does any other holiday scream "big piece o' beef" quite so loudly?), a look at how to make the perfect prime rib.
Finally, from one of my favorite blogs - Cherrypatter - comes a fantastic idea for how to spend your Christmas Eve. Apparently, a group of people gathers each year to carol around the tree in Washington Square Park. All are welcome - nay, encouraged - to join the fun, which begins at 5 PM. Let me know if you go; can't wait to hear all about it!
Some very exciting news was unveiled in yesterday's Dining & Wine section of the New York Times: Shake Shack has signed a lease for space at 86th and Lexington. That would be, oh, three blocks from my apartment.
Am I excited? You bet your bum I'm excited! A delicious, relatively cheap, well-made burger and fries within walking distance? On the way home from the subway, no less? Next to a bookstore?
2010 is looking up, my friends.
My love for the bar at Ouest is well-documented. The affair continued this weekend, when I met my friend Cristin there for a drink and an early dinner. Dinner was, as usual, delicious (I swear I'd sell my soul for that green salad.), but my favorite part of the evening was cocktails and gougères.
Ouest always has at least one signature brown-spirit cocktail on their menu, and their latest and greatest is the Watson, a riff on the Manhattan made with brown butter-infused (YES, you read that right.) bourbon, a dash of sweet vermouth, and an orange peel. Round, nutty, smoky perfection. (By the way, check out this interview with Eben Freeman to find out the trick of infusing liquor with fatty flavor, minus the grease.)And, right alongside, a sizable basket of the house gougères, ripe with stinky cheese and speckled with black pepper. If you still need to be convinced of a reason to eat at the bar, these ought to do the trick. And if you're sweet, Seth might snag you a few extra when they come out of the oven.
Ouest
2315 Broadway
Between 83rd and 84th Streets
212.580.8700
Every few weeks, I head down to the Lower East Side to have my hair done by the fabulous Holly Ivey at Fringe Salon. The neighborhood is a culinary wonderland, and whenever I go I try to squeeze in a bit of food adventure. Fringe is right next to Babycakes, the vegan bakery, and I can rarely resist an agave brownie bite. In the summer, I head around the block to Il Laboratorio del Gelato. And, this weekend, I decided it was high time for a stop at Doughnut Plant.
Doughnut Plant, in case you haven't heard, is home to what are widely regarded as the best doughnuts in New York. Mark Israel opened Doughnut Plant in 1994, making doughnuts out of a basement and selling them, wholesale, to venues around the city. In 2000, he opened a storefront on Grand Street, where the doughnuts can still be had, fresh as a daisy and piping hot, every day.
I'd had Doughnut Plant's doughnuts before; they're available all over the city, most notably at Dean & Deluca. They were always good, but I never thought they were something to write home about. I now know that's because - like all doughnuts - Doughnut Plant's doughnuts are exponentially better when they're super-fresh. For this reason, a visit to the actual store, complete with ridiculously long line, is completely worth the trip.This time around, I ordered an Israel trademark, a yeasted, square doughnut filled with house-made jam (All the jam fillings are made in-house.). This one was also coated in a peanut butter glaze, and dotted all over with little bits of peanut. It was fantastic. Still just slightly warm from the oven, it was squishy and filled with deeply-flavored jam. Since it had only been sitting for a few minutes, the glaze was creamy rather than flaky, and melted in my mouth.
Doughnut Plant also boasts pretty respectable coffee, which you serve yourself - pints of milk are also available, for those who wish to fully recapture the taste of their youth. No matter what your beverage of choice, though, there's no denying that you'll turn giggly and goofy at one taste of the doughnuts.
Doughnut Plant
397 Grand Street
Between Essex and Ludlow
212.505.3700

How could I? I completely forgot to include Judith Jones's cookbook The Pleasures of Cooking For One in my original gift guide. For shame!
The books is a delightfully old-fashioned ode to taking the time and trouble to cook for oneself, a reminder that those of us who eat alone (either occasionally or on a regular basis) deserve delicious, homemade food just as much as those who feast together. Part memoir, part cookbook, it's a hugely useful and inspiring book.
I'm so sorry, Judith! Maybe passing you on the street the other day got me too excited to think clearly. (It really was an exciting moment for this fangirl.)
It's that time of year again - time for gift-giving and getting, for wishes made and granted. I thought I'd jump into the gift guide fray and share a few of the items from my own wish list, along with a few things I find either essential or just too darn neat to pass up.


I already have this one, and I use it at least twice a week - more during the holidays. It's a KitchenAid stand mixer, and it makes life worth living. If you bake, you must have this. If you whip cream or egg whites more than twice a month, you need this. If you want to bake or whip cream more often, you need this. Via its myriad attachments, the mixer can also become an ice cream maker, food mill, meat grinder...
Speaking of splurges - if you can't afford a trip to Paris this winter (which I can't), why not do the next best thing and get your Francophile a box of Pierre Hermé's macarons? Various delicious assortments are available for shipment anywhere in the EU on his website. Stuck here in the USA along with me? Pick up an assortment at a Bouchon Bakery outpost (in Las Vegas, New York or Yountville) or order a selection from Payard Patisserie.
I'm almost as obsessed with books as I am with food, so it's no surprise that my cookbook collection is getting a little out of control. This year was a banner one for cookbooks; these are just a few of my favorites. Clockwise from the middle of the top row, we have a fantastic baking book from Cindy Mushet, The Art and Soul of Baking. The recipes in here run the gamut from simple to complex; it's a great manual for long-time or beginning bakers. Next, a second volume from Gourmet and (former) editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl. Gourmet Today was released just before the magazine was closed in early October, and Reichl spent the weeks after the closing promoting the book around the country. She truly believes in it, and she's right - like The Gourmet Cookbook, it's chock-full of the best the magazine's crack staff had to offer.